In Jennie's Kitchen

smashed brown potatoes + weekend brunch picks

Now that the Thanksgiving dishes are done, I have a few minutes to let you know my brunch picks for the weekend. The picture you're looking at above is my version of hash browns using leftover mashed potatoes. Next week I'll share my recipe for the best cranberry sauce ever. If you think the garnet-hued stuff is just for turkey day, this recipe will change your mind. I'm stocking up on cranberries and plan on canning some to give as holiday gifts this year.

thanksgiving countdown

Today I found myself strolling through the Union Square Greenmarket after finally meeting Julia. It thrills me to meet twitter friends in real life, and is even more rewarding when they turn out to be as wonderful in person. I'd made note on my pass through the market before we met of a bread stand, Buon Pane. The sourdough baguettes looked beautiful and they were my back up plan if I didn't feel up to walking to Balthazar to get the very necessary ingredient for my stuffing.

I got home, baguette in hand from Buon Pane (it was too cold and windy to walk to Soho) and diced it into cubes after cleaning up dinner (beef stew over hand-cut pappardelle if you're interested). This will probably be my last post this week so I have ample time to finish up work and get started on the rest of my Thanksgiving prep work. Curious about the menu? Yeah, I thought so. The main course is turkey...of course (ha, get it, course? Imagine the poor Mr. who has to laugh at my jokes).

I don't brine and I'm not into fancy glazes. Frankly, I've never had a dry bird by stuffing a heart attack's load of butter under the skin and roasting on high heat for about 30 minutes, then reducing 75 degrees or so for the rest of the roasting time. I know you want exact temperatures but in all honesty in changes every year. I usually pull my Fannie Farmer cookbook off the shelf to gauge roasting temps and times. The turkey is just one thing I refuse to stress about and maybe that's why it always comes out looking gorgeous and tasting phenomenal. As for the rest of the menu, there'll be an antipasto platter, broccoli, smoky creamed kale, apple pie, candied nuts if I have time, and the rest of the edible cast goes something like this:

Dorie's biscuits - may even use some rendered leaf lard!

Here's a quick & easy homemade bread recipe too.

sweet potato, ricotta and leek souffle

These cubes will become stuffing with a recipe from memory.

Perhaps this will be the year I write it down!

It's filled with herbed sausage, carrots, celery, onions, pecans or chestnuts

depending on my mood, some eggs and seasonings.

 

caramel pecan pumpkin pie

You could even start the meal with this velvety butternut squash soup. And, if you're skipping sweet potatoes for some old fashioned ones, here are some great tips from Jen Schall on making the perfect mash:

Type - The type of potatoes you choose will make all of difference.  Starchy potatoes like Russets (often called Idaho potatoes) or Yukon Gold potatoes yield nice, fluffy mashed potatoes. Avoid using red potatoes or new potatoes that tend to be waxy and lower in starch.

Texture - To get perfectly smooth and creamy mashed potatoes, try using a potato ricer or a food mill to mash the potatoes.  If you prefer a chunkier texture, go for a wire masher and mash by hand.  To avoid the dreaded “wallpaper paste” potatoes, be sure not to over-mash, since this will break down the starches and create a pasty potato.

Taste - Think beyond the traditional butter and milk in your potatoes this year.  Experiment with new flavors like bacon, sour cream and chives, roasted garlic, or even jalepeño!

Need something sweet for your weekend brunch plans? How about my apple cranberry crumb cake, apple allspice muffins, or cinnamon buns? I'm happy to be on call for other Thanksgiving questions, and the best way to get a quick response is on twitter. 

Lastly, the most important thing to remember while getting ready for Thanksgiving is it's about being grateful for all we have every day of our lives. So, don't sweat it if a side or two aren't piping hot, and who cares if you're pie crust is a little imperfect? Look at each and every person sitting at your dinner table. They are there because you share a special connection. For me the holidays are about creating memories and traditions for my daughters. Before I truss the turkey, I'll be making a donation to Share Our Strength: Share Your Season to help end childhood hunger. I hope you'll join me. Have a very happy holiday, and see you next week.

caramel pecan pumpkin pie

 

Last week, I got it in my head that I wanted to a make a no-bake pumpkin pie. And I wanted one lighter and on the creamy side. Well, a few pies later and more time than any no-bake recipe should require, I learned an hour in the oven is well worth it and requires much less effort. Now, where do I begin? Should we talk about the flaky pie crust? The smooth, light as air creamy filling? Maybe the thin layer of caramel that makes my toes wiggle with excitement just typing the words?

I've searched years for the perfect pie crust recipe and posted my favorite one by Dorie Greenspan over the summer. The recipe for this pie is pretty much the same except I substituted rendered leaf lard for half the butter. I've been in love with the stuff ever since Melissa Clark wrote about it three years ago in the New York Times. Vegetarians beware, and same goes for the faint of heart when reading Clark's description of the process for making it. My babysitter asked one day, and the poor thing nearly fainted when I told her. Once you get past that, though, you're in for a treat. It really does make for the best piecrust. And Clark is right about that porky flavor. It's a crazy taste sensation but for a girl who loves swine, mix it with caramel, pecans and pumpkin...I almost fell off the chair just thinking about it. In fact, there's a bit of drool hanging from the corners of my mouth.

Now, for the filling. I had just made some of Alice's caramel sauce and decided it would be a perfect layer nestled between the crust and pumpkin filling. I was right, and am not at all shy about claiming bragging rights. Warming the spices in a skillet before adding to the pumpkin mixture really awakens the flavor, so it's well worth the extra few minutes and dirty skillet. Cream is my other secret ingredient, so while this pie isn't going to make the American Heart Association's top 10 list, it'll definitely win first place at your Thanksgiving table.

caramel pecan pumpkin pie

makes one 9-inch deep dish pie

One single Dorie's Perfect Pie Crust (just halve the recipe)

1/2 cup Alice's caramel sauce

3 large eggs, beaten

15-ounces fresh or canned pumpkin puree

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

5-ounce can evaporated milk

5 ounces heavy cream

1 cup chopped, very lightly toasted pecans

Preheat oven to 425ºF. Fit unbaked piecrust into a 9-inch deep dish pie plate. Spread caramel sauce evenly over bottom; set aside.

Heat spices in small skillet over medium-low heat until fragrant, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Add 2 eggs, pumpkin puree, warmed spices, evaporated milk and cream to a medium bowl. Whisk together until well combined. Pour into piecrust over caramel layer. Evenly sprinkle chopped pecans on top, gently pressing them into the filling. Brush edges of crust with some of the remaining beaten egg (store the rest in the fridge if you plan on making more pies this week). Bake at 425ºF for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature 350ºF and bake for another 45 minutes, until the center is set (will look firm and not jiggly—no it's not a real cooking term, but you get the point, right?). Let cool completely before serving.

A few notes: I'm tempted to up the caramel sauce to 1 cup next time I make this. Also, don't toast the pecans too much since they will cook during the baking process. I used the empty evaporated milk can to measure out the cream since it was 5 ounces anyway. And if you're a vegetarian, or the mere thought of rendered leaf lard sends you running for the hills, feel free to sub shortening or use all butter for your pie crust.

thanksgiving notes + no-cook cranberry salsa

Let the Thanksgiving countdown begin. Can you believe I still haven't ordered my turkey? I kid you not. Thankfully my local butcher will take orders through this weekend. I think the delay has been because the turkey really plays second fiddle for me. I'm all about the sides, and channel all my energies in that direction. Here are some really brief highlights from my "To Do" list for the coming days in hopes of a peaceful and manageable Thanksgiving cooking experience.

Saturday & Sunday

• order the darn turkey—I imagine you're all light years ahead of me on this one.
• buy  bread for the stuffing. Now I don't want to judge, but making your own bread cubes is really easy, so stop your moaning. Depending on how humid your house is, they'll need a good 2 to 3 days to fully dry out and get stale. Make sure they're cut in an equal size and shape so they cook evenly.
• roast pumpkins for pie filling. Canned is actually a very acceptable substitute but since I don't hunt for the turkey, this fulfills my primal needs. Oh, and it's really makes the house smell nice.
• Greenmarket shop for apples, any root veggies I need, sweet potatoes and yukons.

Monday

• Try to remember to buy bread I may have forgotten this past weekend. I'm not perfect, and never pretend to be. Shopping lists are my arch nemesis since I always forget them at home.
• Make the cranberry relish (recipe is below).

Tuesday

• Try to beat the crowds at the local Italian shop. It wouldn't be an occasion without an antipasto platter, complete with olives, fresh mozzarella, prosciutto and cacciatorini.
• Make pie crusts and store, tightly wrapped in fridge, for Thursday morning. I like really fresh baked pies, so they go into the oven before the turkey.

Wednesday

• Decor. I pride myself in making beautiful centerpieces a la Martha Stewart. This started out of thrift but I enjoy it so much, it's become a tradition. It's sure to have gourds, tiny pumpkins, leaves collected from our backyard, pomegranates, cranberries and daisies. That reminds me, need to add floral green foam to the weekend list that I'll inevitable forget at home.
• Prep the stuffing. This always taste best once it's had time for the flavors to meld in the fridge overnight.

Thursday

• Walk to local bakery for cheese bread, prosciutto bread and Italian bread. The first two are for the antipasto—the latter is in case I get too crazed to make biscuits. It's always important to have a backup plan.
• Pray the baby is in a good mood and likes to watch the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade. The Mr. will likely take her older sister to his friend's office overlooking the parade route.
• Thinking about my mom, and missing her terribly. As crazy as she drives me sometimes, my Thanksgiving table is not complete without her there. She's caring for my disabled aunt and the schlep is to much for her to get to my house. Then again, maybe a few comments or tweets of encouragement (oh, something like "Maria, you can't miss Thanksgiving with @jenniferperillo!" might work, eh? She does read my blog and twitter feed afterall, and you can't blame a girl for trying.)

No-Cook Cranberry Salsa

makes about one quart

I'd never thought about cranberry salsa as a compliment to my Thanksgiving menu until putting together the November issue of Working Mother magazine. One of the recipes in our featured cookbook, How to Cook a Turkey and All the Other Trimmings (Tauton Press 2007), was eye-opening for two main reasons: 1) uncooked cranberries when properly balanced with more than just a ton of sugar are bright in flavor and fun in texture and 2) it gains big points for not monopolizing an already busy stove top. I 86'd the pears to let the cranberries be the star and nixed the chilies too to keep it kid friendly. And what would salsa be without a splash of fresh lime juice? The real secret here, though, is agave nectar. Unlike honey which is more pungent tasting, agave nectar adds a creamy sweetness to temper the tart nature of cranberries. This dish only gets better with time, so plan on making it at least two days in advance.

1 onion, peeled and quartered

1 bag cranberries, picked over and rinsed

freshly squeezed juice of 1 orange

freshly squeezed juice of 1 lime

1/4 cup agave nectar

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Add the onions and cranberries to the workbowl of a food processor. Pulse until coarsely chopped. Combine with remaining ingredients in a large bowl and stir until well mixed. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator. Best served two days later, so this requires advance planning but the pay-off is a delicious no-cook condiment.

golden ricotta pumpkin fritters

Hard to believe Thanksgiving is next week. It seems the period between Labor Day and Halloween drags a bit, settling into school and accepting that summer really is over. Then, with a flip of the switch sort of feeling, it's November. Frankly, I love this month for two reasons. First, it's my birth month, and my mom always made the day special. We couldn't afford extravagant gifts, but what she gave was something you can't put a price tag on. She made me feel unbelievably special, like a princess for the day.

It would begin the night before, as she set my stick-straight hair with pink foam rollers before bedtime (picture the sleepover scene from Grease, except a nerdy-looking girl with coke bottle glasses). Then I'd wake and get to decide my birthday dinner. My sister usually complained at my choice, but it was my day, and perhaps I secretly chose something she didn't like to feel like I hand the upperhand—even if for just one day. My dad often made my birthday cakes, and one year created the most amazing looking Garfield and Odie cakes (I said I was a geek folks), complete with chocolate-covered cherry noses.

The second reason I love this month is because it's the start of a warm, celebratory season. Everyone seems to have a bit more pep to their step and sparkle in their eyes. It's a time of wonder, childhood fantasies and to give thanks. And so, if you're still planning your Thanksgiving menus, I'll be posting some recipes sure to make this year's meal is deliciously easy. First up are ricotta pumpkin fritters below. They're my twist on zeppoles, an addictive Italian fried dough.

The wonderful Jen Schall will be posting an excellent tutorial on creaming vs. cutting butter later in the week. Also up are the 411 on mashed potatoes, a no-cook cranberry salsa and you can get started adding the ingredients for my sweet potato, ricotta and leek souffle to your shopping list. Need a foolproof dessert? Swap out apples for the berries in my free form tart and skip the fuss of fluting all those piecrusts.

Golden Ricotta Pumpkin Fritters

Makes about  48 small fritters

Homemade pumpkin puree lends a depth of flavor to this recipe. See the note below for making your own.

These fritters cook up quick and are best served hot, so wait until guests start arriving to make them.

 

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

3 Tablespoons granulated sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

8 ounces ricotta cheese, well drained

1/2 cup pureed pumpkin

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Canola oil, for frying

Confectioner's sugar, for garnish

 

1. Fill a heavy-bottomed deep saucepan halfway with canola oil. Heat the oil to 375ºF degrees.

2. Meanwhile, whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and spices together in a medium bowl. Set aside.

3. Add the ricotta cheese, pumpkin, eggs and vanilla extract to a medium bowl. Beat with a fork until mixed well. Pour over flour mixture and stir until wet and dry ingredients are incorporated, being careful not to overmix.

 

That's Butler Pure Vanilla Extract—8 ounces for only $10!

I discovered it on the lower east side on my birthday last year.

4. Drop a scant teaspoon of the mixture at a time into the heated oil. Fry until light golden brown, about 30 seconds on each side. Drain on a parchment lined baking sheet.

5. Pile drained fritters on a platter and sift powdered sugar over the top if serving for dessert, or with a ramekin of savory jam.

PUMPKIN PUREE: Cut a small pie pumpkin (also called sugar pumpkins) in half, scoop out the seeds and place cut side down on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake at 400º until flesh is tender when pierced with a fork, about 30 to 40 minutes depending on the size. Let cool completely, then scoop out flesh and add to the work bowl of a food processor. Process until smooth. Spoon into a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a bowl for 10 minutes to let any excess water drain.

 

apple cranberry crumb cake

 

I'm very excited for cranberries this season. While they'll probably peak in home kitchens during next week's Thanksgiving holiday, there's no reason to shelve them until 2010. Last weekened I had decided they'd play a part in my recipe for Bon Appétit Blog Envy Bake-Off. But what would I make (hint: look up at that cake above)? One of the rules for the bake-off is it has to be a holiday recipe. Now, really, what does that mean? I didn't want to make a cookie, and yule log was out. I also wanted a recipe that could hold its own year-round, and if it doubled as a brunch or breakfast item, but could easily pass as dessert too, then I'd be a bit closer to genius (at least in my mind). And, so the final outcome was crumb cake—it seemed to fit the bill perfectly.

Now, I like a generous amount of crumb, so there's no skimping in this recipe. It also has a nice variety of layers. On first bite, there's the crunchy cocoa-streusel topping. That's followed by a thin, moist layer of golden, buttery cake. And the bottom is where the shredded apples settle to form a cakey-applesauce-like layer. All the while flecked with chopped bits of cranberries. To heck with the food writer snobs who frown on the word delicious, because that's just what this cake is. So I'll let you know if it gets accepted to Bon Appétit's Blog Envy Bake-Off (update 11-16 GO VOTE HERE). Until then, go buy some cranberries and stuff a few bags in the freezer to last you once they disappear from stores so you can enjoy this cake before, during and after the holiday season.

For the cocoa streusel topping

1 1/2 cups flour

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup brown sugar

2 Tablespoons cocoa powder

1 teaspoon allspice

1/2 cup butter (1 stick), melted

For the coffee cake batter

3 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 cup butter (2 sticks), softened

2 cups sugar

4 large eggs, at room temperature

1 cup buttermilk

2 cups shredded apples (about 2 medium)

2 cups fresh cranberries, coarsely chopped

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Grease a 9-inch by 13-inch baking tray; set aside.

To make the streusel topping, add the flour, sugars, cocoa powder and allspice to a medium bowl. Stir in melted butter and mix until fully combined. Set aside.

For the cake, whisk the flour, baking soda, salt and baking powder together in a large bowl; set aside. Add the butter and sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer and beat until light and fluffy, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.

On low speed, add one third of the flour mixture and mix well. Add one third of the buttermilk and mix well. Repeat, alternating between the dry and wet ingredients until all have been add. Beat on medium-high speed for 30 seconds. Fold in the apple and cranberries. Spread into prepared pan, sprinkle crumb topping evenly over batter, making sure to get that outer edge too. Bake 60 minutes, until a metal skewer inserted comes out clean. Let cool 30 minutes, or to room temperature, before cutting.

Did I mention you can vote for this to win Bon Appetit's Blog Envy this year? Think of it as a combo birthday and holiday gift to little 'ol me. VOTE HERE

sweet potato, ricotta & leek soufflé

I’ve been really inspired by leftovers lately. That whole idea of waste not, want not, makes a big difference on the weekly grocery bill too. This past Rosh Hashanah, I was “winging” it for the side dish. I knew it would be something with sweet potatoes, since I’d picked them up at the farmer’s market, but I didn’t really have a plan. That is until I saw the leeks at the market too. I started thinking about mashed sweet potatoes paired with some sautéed leeks. Then that morphed into a soufflé. When I got home and started unloading ingredients, and spied some leftover homemade ricotta I’d made earlier in the week, my side dish was finally complete—a sweet potato, leek and ricotta soufflé would share the table with apple-onion braised brisket. It’ll also make a nice addition to my Thanksgiving table this year too.