In Jennie's Kitchen

The First Thanksgiving {chocolate chess pie}

It's funny how I can feel so alone in a crowded room these days. This little place here in cyberspace, though—I never feel alone here. The sincere comments, emails and well-wishes over the last week have only reaffirmed what I've always believed—there are more good people in this world than we sometimes realize.

When I wrote a post asking friends to make a peanut butter pie to celebrate Mikey's life and the love for everyone in their own lives, I never expected the amazing domino effect that would follow. One woman wrote to tell me she has a peanut butter chocolate cupcake on the menu at her cafe in Buenos Aires in honor of Mikey, with the proceedings going to a charity that helps kids in need.

It reminded me of Eric Carle's story the The Tiny Seed, the way the love Mikey and I shared made it's way through the borders of Argentina into the heart of a woman neither of us knew. There are many more stories like this, and they make my heart swell with hope.

Today I have another pie to share with you. I made this pie for Thanksgiving last week, and for most of you this is a new recipe too. I created it about four months ago for Betty Crocker, and Mikey passed away before it was published. I thought about it last Tuesday night as I was planning my Thanksgiving menu. I knew that brown butter apple pie was a definite on my dessert list. Being Italian, though, we're never satisfied with just one dessert. In fact, there's usually a dozen to choose from on Christmas Eve.

I had planned on making a pumpkin pie, but Mikey and I were the only ones who liked it. While I wouldn't get the hairy eye for eating a whole pie by myself, I just didn't want to eat that one without my partner in pie-eating crime. So my mind wandered to that chocolate chess pie.

I first made chess pie for Olga's birthday back in May. It was a more traditional lemon one, and I was in awe of how darn easy it was to make. When Betty Crocker called asking for some new recipe ideas, I decided to try my hand at a chocolate chess pie. I didn't invent the wheel on this one, I just tweaked it really since chocolate chess pie is a common Southern treat.

Last week, I took that tweak one step further. Instead of simply melting the butter, I decided to brown it—I may need a support group for people who brown butter obsessively. I wasn't quite sure if it would make a difference, as the recipe only needs four tablespoons of melted butter anyway, but I decided it was worth a try. I'm happy to report the extra few minutes imparted a subtle toffee undertone to the chocolate filling.

You know what else I love about this pie? It gets better with age. I know this because I served it as dessert four day later. I also had a tiny sliver every night in between, and as the days passed the velvety chocolate filling transformed into a thick, fudgy one. It was seriously like a slice of deep chocolate fudge on a buttery crust.

Oh, and the crust. This is the easiest pie crust you will ever make. I know people say that all the time, but this time it's really true. It's a vinegar-based pie crust, which at first thought, I know you're wondering if it tastes like vinegar. Not a chance. I liberally adapted the recipe from Mollie Cox Bryan, so much so that really it's a new recipe in itself. For starters, I ran out of white vinegar, so I opted for apple cider vinegar. I also swapped in butter for the shortening—big surprise, I know.

A little bit of sugar is essential in any pie crust too, so I added a teaspoon. My last change was adding some cornmeal to the crust for a crumbly, textured quality. This pie crust has character people. You also don't need to chill it before rolling it out. Just make it, roll it out, fit it into the pie plate, then let it chill ever so briefly as you prepare the filling. The recipe is enough for two piecrusts, so I wrapped the leftover piece and used it for the apple pie the next day.

I don't see a need to make any other crust—ever.again.

I know some of you may be feeling anxious about the holidays. Whether you're traveling a similar road as myself, just get blue around this time of year or feel under pressure by all the baking happening around you—it's an easy time of year to want to check out. I love Christmas-time, though, and this year, more than ever, I need it to feel happy and special.

Yes, my heart aches at the sight of his stocking hanging next to mine—at the thought of tomorrow's tree lighting in Rockefeller Center, knowing we won't take the kids together this year, but I do still think it is the most wonderful time of the year. It's a time when dreams come true, and hearts grow ten times in size. I may be too old to sit on Santa's lap, and heaven knows he can't make my only wish come true this year, but this chocolate chess pie? Well, for a small moment in time on day 108 it had the power to heal.

Brown Butter Chocolate Chess Pie

makes one 9-inch pie

There are so many things to love about this pie—ease of preparation, ranking high on my list. It also is best when it has a day to rest, so I tend to make it the night before I plan on serving it. If you want to serve it the same day, make sure you leave as least 4 hours for it to cool completely, so the filling has time to set. Whatever you do, don't refrigerate it—chess pie is meant to be served at room temperature.

One Cornmeal Vinegar Pie Crust (recipe below)

1/4 cup (2 ounces) unsalted butter (directions to brown it)

1 1/2 cups (300 grams) natural cane sugar

1/4 teaspoon (1 gram) fleur de sel

1/4 cup (23 grams) dark cocoa, like Guittard or Valrhona

3 eggs

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 tablespoon (12 grams) yellow cornmeal

Fresh whipped cream, to serve (optional)

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Melt the butter over medium heat in a small, heavy-bottomed pot. Cook until it begins to brown, but not burn; it will smell nutty and fragrant. Remove from heat and let cool for 5 minutes.

Gently press pie crust into an ungreased 9-inch glass pie plate. Trim any overhang and crimp edges, using the back tines of a fork. Place pie plate in refrigerator while you prepare the filling.

Pour the melted butter, scraping any browned bits into, a deep bowl. Add the sugar and cocoa and stir with a fork until well blended. Add the eggs and vanilla. Beat, using whisk, until well mixed and it forms a thick batter. Stir in the cornmeal just until combined; pour into the prepared pie crust.

Bake 35 to 45 minutes or until the pie is set and the top puffs up and forms hard crust. Cool completely. Serve at room temperature with a dollop of whipped cream.

Cornmeal Vinegar Crust

Makes two 9-inch pie crusts

inspired by this recipe by Mollie Cox Bryan

1/3 cup (50 grams) yellow cornmeal

1 1/2 cups (200 grams) all purpose flour, plus extra for rolling out

1/2 teaspoon (4 grams) salt

1 teaspoon (6 grams) natural cane sugar

1 cup (8 ounces) very cold butter, cut into 16 pieces

1 large egg

1 1/2 teaspoons white vinegar

2 tablespoons ice cold water

Add the flours, salt and sugar to the bowl of a food processor. Pulse 1-2 times to mix well. Add the bits of butter and pulse a few times until it forms a sandy-looking mixture. Add the egg, vinegar and water. Pulse until it forms a solid ball of dough, about 8 to 10 one-second pulses.

Dump the ball of dough out onto a well-floured counter or smooth surface. Divide the dough in two equal pieces, wrapping one of them if you're only make a single-crust pie. Roll out in a circle large enough to fit your pie plate. Proceed with directions for whichever pie recipe you are using.

spiced scented cranberry sauce {day 106}

Thanksgiving preparation has officially started, and I wasn't sure what to expect as I set out to make the cranberry sauce. I'd bought the cranberries last week, and there they sat in the fruit drawer of my fridge. I'd stare at them each time I opened the door, and think "maybe tomorrow the mood will strike to make it".

Well, Thanksgiving is only three days away, and this year I'm blinking in disbelief at how fast this fall has gone by. I go to bed each night thinking of how I found him when I heard he had collapsed. I replay this scene over in my mind before I go to sleep to remind myself that this is really my life, my reality.

I've written about being thankful, and I encourage the girls every day to remember how fortunate we are in spite of this sad truth. For now, my goal is a short term one—get through Thanksgiving. A reader who has also suffered this kind of loss, commented that the anticipation leading up to the "day", be it an anniversary, birthday, or holiday is sometimes harder than the day itself. I've hit two big "days" so far, and I believe that to be true too.

So, I'm glad I didn't turn my back on Thanksgiving this year. As I poured the cranberries into the pot and measured out the spices, I felt normal. I felt like the old "Jennifer". The one who did these things without blinking an eye before August 7th.

Spice Scented Cranberry Sauce

Makes about one quart

A few of you asked about my recipe, so I figured I'd share it with you again. I created it two years ago, and it was featured on the blog I used to write for Relish Magazine last November.

One 12 ounce bag fresh cranberries, rinsed and picked over

1/2 cup water

1/2 cup granulated sugar

3/4 cup packed brown sugar (light or dark is fine)

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/8 teaspoon allspice

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Add all the ingredients to a heavy-bottomed 2-quart pot, and stir to combine. Cover pot and bring mixture to a boil over medium-high heat (keep a close eye because if it boils over it'll make a mess of your stove—I speak from experience and too much multitasking!).

Remove lid, reduce heat to a simmer and let cook, stirring occasionally, until thick and jam-like, about 15 to 17 minutes. Let cool to room temperature or chill before serving. May be prepared and stored in a glass container 3 to 4 days in advance.

day 104 {brown butter apple pie}

It's the seemingly little things that throttle me back into the harshness of my reality. Tonight I was folding laundry, and when I came to the dinner napkins there were only three of each pattern. Everything about a meal at home makes me ache for him, but the napkin thing especially tugs at my sense of balance.

I always bought napkins in sets of four.

Now I only need three on normal evenings.

That fourth, lonely napkin sits cast aside in the drawer until it is needed every third day. By the third day there are three mismatched napkins, longingly waiting to be put to good use.

Those mismatched napkins remind me everyday that there is a piece of our family missing. They gather in the draw, and seem to scream at me every time I open it—"he is never coming back".

Then the third day comes, and all is as it should be—napkins in sets of four, together again. Of course, our life doesn't go back to normal. Mikey does not suddenly reappear. But the napkins are in order. Something is in order, and as it should be for a change.

Those moments are the sense of control I crave.

I gave much thought to Thanksgiving this year. Should I go far away? Should I cook? Should I go to a friend's nearby? In the end, I realized I needed to retain some sort of control. If I chased myself from the kitchen, that would solve nothing.

I'm worried how it will feel to roast the turkey, knowing there is no one to shoo away from the crackly, golden skin. Hopefully I'll get the spice scented cranberry sauce going tomorrow—he would sneak into the fridge and eat spoonfuls of it. The stuffing is something Mikey always lovingly prepared, and I'm not yet sure if I will make it. I'm going to make that call closer to Thursday.

Last year, I made a new dessert for Thanksgiving and Mikey loved it. Todd and Diane can vouch for it too, since they made their version of it recently. It was a brown butter apple pie, and yes, it's as amazing as it sounds—plus it doesn't require much more effort than a regular apple pie. You just brown some butter to add a warm, toffee-like flavor to filling. I'm going to make that pie again, but perhaps adjust the salt, since I'm sure they'll be a few tears in the filling too.

instant turkey pot pie

Last night, after the final dishes were washed, the floors cleaned and leftovers stowed away, I settled in with the Sunday Times. Yes, I’m quite behind in reading, considering this was a Thursday evening and we’re talking about the past Sunday’s paper.

In the real estate section was an article about high-end assisted living communities for retirees. Watching your parents age is one of the toughest parts of growing up. It has weighed very heavily on the Mr., being an only-child, as to how we can help, considering his parents don’t have the means to spend thousands of dollars a month on a retirement community. We have our own financial future to ponder and college for two to plan for, as well.

This leaves the Mr. and I are at a crossroads. In their early 80s and hearing-impaired, they are legally deaf, we realized earlier this year that they are reaching a point at which they can’t live on their own much longer. Thankfully a caring neighbor set them up with a social worker, who in turn got them signed up for City Meals on Wheels. Cooking was always something done out of necessity, and the fact that my mother-in-law's arthritis now makes it difficult for her to even lift a pot, this has been a vital service. One puzzle piece in place.

So, I just want to extend one more heartfelt thanks to Shauna, Jen, Cheryl, Gail, Merry-Jennifer, Gina, Brooke, Jessica, Rachael, Winnie, Cathy, Casey, Carol, Vanessa, Ilina, Silvana, Sue and my other dear friend Jen. In a week filled with loss of electricity, volunteering at soup kitchens, traveling to family and preparing a special meal for loved ones, you put the needs of others first. It is an honor to call you all friends, and my life is truly richer for having you in it.

Instant Turkey Pot Pie

Serves as many as you like

This is the first incarnation of leftovers at our house. It was a spur of the moment lunch I prepared for the Mr., and a very thrifty use of all the leftovers. I’m not including exact amounts, but rather giving you the blueprint so you can make individual servings or layer them into a larger casserole dish to serve family style (and I highly recommend a basket of biscuits if you do it that way too).

Stuffing

Gravy

White and dark meat turkey, chopped or shredded

Mashed potatoes

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Butter the bottom and sides of individual ramekins or a 12-inch oval casserole dish. Spoon an even layer of stuffing into the bottom of the dish. In a separate bowl mix together some gravy and turkey. Spoon on top of the stuffing. Using an offset spatula, spread a layer of mashed potatoes on top.

Bake until heated through, about 15 to 18 minutes for individual servings, and 25 to 28 minutes for larger casseroles. Remove from oven and turn oven setting to broil. Place casserole under the broiler until top turns golden, 3 to 5 minutes, watching carefully so it does not burn. Serve immediately.

 

crepes + a twist on apple pie

After my birthday breakfast at Clinton St. Baking Company, I wandered through the streets of Chinatown, Little Italy, Soho and Chelsea. The Mr. asked if he could take the day off to spend with me. My girlfriends asked what I would be up to, as well.

Thankfully, they all understood the best gift I could give myself was a day untethered, alone with my thoughts. Wandering, somewhat aimlessly, has always been something I enjoy doing in New York City—below 23rd street that is. Anything further uptown is too frenzied for me.

Perhaps it's because my parents spent a lot of time downtown. One side job I forgot to mention was blowing up balloons as a kid for the dart games at the San Gennaro feast. Strolling down Grand Street, those memories came flooding back.

At some point I realized I was dangerously close to Sur La Table, and figured why not take a looksy. I walked longingly past the crepe pans a few times. I've been making due with an 8-inch nonstick skillet, so both frugality and thrift kept telling me it would be silly to add one more item to an already cramped set of cabinets. I also resisted the urge to buy a cute cow-shaped creamer I've been wanting for forever. My milk bottles from the market do the job fine, and do I really need more clutter?

Throwing caution to the wind, I went back inside and plunked down $18.51 and headed home with my new De Buyer crepe pan. I know, such internal debate over an item less than $20. My needs are simple, and as I made 40 crepes this morning for Isabella's school Thanksgiving celebration, I was beaming inside, feeling all fancy and grown up with my very own crepe pan.

I'm guessing the pilgrims didn't serve crepes at the very first Thanksgiving, but I'm confident if they could taste these, they'd give 'em a thumbs up. Since the class celebration was during the French part of the day, I decided to mix a little of both cultures, and also make it an edible do-it-yourself project for the kids. Before you think start thinking I'm as adventurous as Kim in the classroom, I prepped all the parts in advance, so the kids simply spooned in the filling, folded and ate them. There wasn't a speck of flour on anyone's feet. I even made a dairy-free version of the crepes and filling, sans brown butter obviously, that was an equally tasty hit.

If the thought of crimping a crust is crippling, then this is the perfect dessert for next week. It combines the flavors everyone wants without fear of cutting an imperfect slice, while also freeing up room in an already crowded oven.

smashed brown potatoes + weekend brunch picks

Now that the Thanksgiving dishes are done, I have a few minutes to let you know my brunch picks for the weekend. The picture you're looking at above is my version of hash browns using leftover mashed potatoes. Next week I'll share my recipe for the best cranberry sauce ever. If you think the garnet-hued stuff is just for turkey day, this recipe will change your mind. I'm stocking up on cranberries and plan on canning some to give as holiday gifts this year.

thanksgiving countdown

Today I found myself strolling through the Union Square Greenmarket after finally meeting Julia. It thrills me to meet twitter friends in real life, and is even more rewarding when they turn out to be as wonderful in person. I'd made note on my pass through the market before we met of a bread stand, Buon Pane. The sourdough baguettes looked beautiful and they were my back up plan if I didn't feel up to walking to Balthazar to get the very necessary ingredient for my stuffing.

I got home, baguette in hand from Buon Pane (it was too cold and windy to walk to Soho) and diced it into cubes after cleaning up dinner (beef stew over hand-cut pappardelle if you're interested). This will probably be my last post this week so I have ample time to finish up work and get started on the rest of my Thanksgiving prep work. Curious about the menu? Yeah, I thought so. The main course is turkey...of course (ha, get it, course? Imagine the poor Mr. who has to laugh at my jokes).

I don't brine and I'm not into fancy glazes. Frankly, I've never had a dry bird by stuffing a heart attack's load of butter under the skin and roasting on high heat for about 30 minutes, then reducing 75 degrees or so for the rest of the roasting time. I know you want exact temperatures but in all honesty in changes every year. I usually pull my Fannie Farmer cookbook off the shelf to gauge roasting temps and times. The turkey is just one thing I refuse to stress about and maybe that's why it always comes out looking gorgeous and tasting phenomenal. As for the rest of the menu, there'll be an antipasto platter, broccoli, smoky creamed kale, apple pie, candied nuts if I have time, and the rest of the edible cast goes something like this:

Dorie's biscuits - may even use some rendered leaf lard!

Here's a quick & easy homemade bread recipe too.

sweet potato, ricotta and leek souffle

These cubes will become stuffing with a recipe from memory.

Perhaps this will be the year I write it down!

It's filled with herbed sausage, carrots, celery, onions, pecans or chestnuts

depending on my mood, some eggs and seasonings.

 

caramel pecan pumpkin pie

You could even start the meal with this velvety butternut squash soup. And, if you're skipping sweet potatoes for some old fashioned ones, here are some great tips from Jen Schall on making the perfect mash:

Type - The type of potatoes you choose will make all of difference.  Starchy potatoes like Russets (often called Idaho potatoes) or Yukon Gold potatoes yield nice, fluffy mashed potatoes. Avoid using red potatoes or new potatoes that tend to be waxy and lower in starch.

Texture - To get perfectly smooth and creamy mashed potatoes, try using a potato ricer or a food mill to mash the potatoes.  If you prefer a chunkier texture, go for a wire masher and mash by hand.  To avoid the dreaded “wallpaper paste” potatoes, be sure not to over-mash, since this will break down the starches and create a pasty potato.

Taste - Think beyond the traditional butter and milk in your potatoes this year.  Experiment with new flavors like bacon, sour cream and chives, roasted garlic, or even jalepeño!

Need something sweet for your weekend brunch plans? How about my apple cranberry crumb cake, apple allspice muffins, or cinnamon buns? I'm happy to be on call for other Thanksgiving questions, and the best way to get a quick response is on twitter. 

Lastly, the most important thing to remember while getting ready for Thanksgiving is it's about being grateful for all we have every day of our lives. So, don't sweat it if a side or two aren't piping hot, and who cares if you're pie crust is a little imperfect? Look at each and every person sitting at your dinner table. They are there because you share a special connection. For me the holidays are about creating memories and traditions for my daughters. Before I truss the turkey, I'll be making a donation to Share Our Strength: Share Your Season to help end childhood hunger. I hope you'll join me. Have a very happy holiday, and see you next week.

caramel pecan pumpkin pie

 

Last week, I got it in my head that I wanted to a make a no-bake pumpkin pie. And I wanted one lighter and on the creamy side. Well, a few pies later and more time than any no-bake recipe should require, I learned an hour in the oven is well worth it and requires much less effort. Now, where do I begin? Should we talk about the flaky pie crust? The smooth, light as air creamy filling? Maybe the thin layer of caramel that makes my toes wiggle with excitement just typing the words?

I've searched years for the perfect pie crust recipe and posted my favorite one by Dorie Greenspan over the summer. The recipe for this pie is pretty much the same except I substituted rendered leaf lard for half the butter. I've been in love with the stuff ever since Melissa Clark wrote about it three years ago in the New York Times. Vegetarians beware, and same goes for the faint of heart when reading Clark's description of the process for making it. My babysitter asked one day, and the poor thing nearly fainted when I told her. Once you get past that, though, you're in for a treat. It really does make for the best piecrust. And Clark is right about that porky flavor. It's a crazy taste sensation but for a girl who loves swine, mix it with caramel, pecans and pumpkin...I almost fell off the chair just thinking about it. In fact, there's a bit of drool hanging from the corners of my mouth.

Now, for the filling. I had just made some of caramel sauce and decided it would be a perfect layer nestled between the crust and pumpkin filling. I was right, and am not at all shy about claiming bragging rights. Warming the spices in a skillet before adding to the pumpkin mixture really awakens the flavor, so it's well worth the extra few minutes and dirty skillet. Cream is my other secret ingredient, so while this pie isn't going to make the American Heart Association's top 10 list, it'll definitely win first place at your Thanksgiving table.

caramel pecan pumpkin pie

makes one 9-inch deep dish pie

One single Dorie's Perfect Pie Crust (just halve the recipe)

1/2 cup caramel sauce

3 large eggs, beaten

15-ounces fresh or canned pumpkin puree

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

5-ounce can evaporated milk

5 ounces heavy cream

1 cup chopped, very lightly toasted pecans

Preheat oven to 425ºF. Fit unbaked piecrust into a 9-inch deep dish pie plate. Spread caramel sauce evenly over bottom; set aside.

Heat spices in small skillet over medium-low heat until fragrant, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Add 2 eggs, pumpkin puree, warmed spices, evaporated milk and cream to a medium bowl. Whisk together until well combined. Pour into piecrust over caramel layer. Evenly sprinkle chopped pecans on top, gently pressing them into the filling. Brush edges of crust with some of the remaining beaten egg (store the rest in the fridge if you plan on making more pies this week). Bake at 425ºF for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature 350ºF and bake for another 45 minutes, until the center is set (will look firm and not jiggly—no it's not a real cooking term, but you get the point, right?). Let cool completely before serving.

A few notes: I'm tempted to up the caramel sauce to 1 cup next time I make this. Also, don't toast the pecans too much since they will cook during the baking process. I used the empty evaporated milk can to measure out the cream since it was 5 ounces anyway. And if you're a vegetarian, or the mere thought of rendered leaf lard sends you running for the hills, feel free to sub shortening or use all butter for your pie crust.

thanksgiving notes + no-cook cranberry salsa

Let the Thanksgiving countdown begin. Can you believe I still haven't ordered my turkey? I kid you not. Thankfully my local butcher will take orders through this weekend. I think the delay has been because the turkey really plays second fiddle for me. I'm all about the sides, and channel all my energies in that direction. Here are some really brief highlights from my "To Do" list for the coming days in hopes of a peaceful and manageable Thanksgiving cooking experience.

Saturday & Sunday

• order the darn turkey—I imagine you're all light years ahead of me on this one.
• buy  bread for the stuffing. Now I don't want to judge, but making your own bread cubes is really easy, so stop your moaning. Depending on how humid your house is, they'll need a good 2 to 3 days to fully dry out and get stale. Make sure they're cut in an equal size and shape so they cook evenly.
• roast pumpkins for pie filling. Canned is actually a very acceptable substitute but since I don't hunt for the turkey, this fulfills my primal needs. Oh, and it's really makes the house smell nice.
• Greenmarket shop for apples, any root veggies I need, sweet potatoes and yukons.

Monday

• Try to remember to buy bread I may have forgotten this past weekend. I'm not perfect, and never pretend to be. Shopping lists are my arch nemesis since I always forget them at home.
• Make the cranberry relish (recipe is below).

Tuesday

• Try to beat the crowds at the local Italian shop. It wouldn't be an occasion without an antipasto platter, complete with olives, fresh mozzarella, prosciutto and cacciatorini.
• Make pie crusts and store, tightly wrapped in fridge, for Thursday morning. I like really fresh baked pies, so they go into the oven before the turkey.

Wednesday

• Decor. I pride myself in making beautiful centerpieces a la Martha Stewart. This started out of thrift but I enjoy it so much, it's become a tradition. It's sure to have gourds, tiny pumpkins, leaves collected from our backyard, pomegranates, cranberries and daisies. That reminds me, need to add floral green foam to the weekend list that I'll inevitable forget at home.
• Prep the stuffing. This always taste best once it's had time for the flavors to meld in the fridge overnight.

Thursday

• Walk to local bakery for cheese bread, prosciutto bread and Italian bread. The first two are for the antipasto—the latter is in case I get too crazed to make biscuits. It's always important to have a backup plan.
• Pray the baby is in a good mood and likes to watch the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade. The Mr. will likely take her older sister to his friend's office overlooking the parade route.
• Thinking about my mom, and missing her terribly. As crazy as she drives me sometimes, my Thanksgiving table is not complete without her there. She's caring for my disabled aunt and the schlep is to much for her to get to my house. Then again, maybe a few comments or tweets of encouragement (oh, something like "Maria, you can't miss Thanksgiving with @jenniferperillo!" might work, eh? She does read my blog and twitter feed afterall, and you can't blame a girl for trying.)

No-Cook Cranberry Salsa

makes about one quart

I'd never thought about cranberry salsa as a compliment to my Thanksgiving menu until putting together the November issue of Working Mother magazine. One of the recipes in our featured cookbook, How to Cook a Turkey and All the Other Trimmings (Tauton Press 2007), was eye-opening for two main reasons: 1) uncooked cranberries when properly balanced with more than just a ton of sugar are bright in flavor and fun in texture and 2) it gains big points for not monopolizing an already busy stove top. I 86'd the pears to let the cranberries be the star and nixed the chilies too to keep it kid friendly. And what would salsa be without a splash of fresh lime juice? The real secret here, though, is agave nectar. Unlike honey which is more pungent tasting, agave nectar adds a creamy sweetness to temper the tart nature of cranberries. This dish only gets better with time, so plan on making it at least two days in advance.

1 onion, peeled and quartered

1 bag cranberries, picked over and rinsed

freshly squeezed juice of 1 orange

freshly squeezed juice of 1 lime

1/4 cup agave nectar

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Add the onions and cranberries to the workbowl of a food processor. Pulse until coarsely chopped. Combine with remaining ingredients in a large bowl and stir until well mixed. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator. Best served two days later, so this requires advance planning but the pay-off is a delicious no-cook condiment.

golden ricotta pumpkin fritters

Hard to believe Thanksgiving is next week. It seems the period between Labor Day and Halloween drags a bit, settling into school and accepting that summer really is over. Then, with a flip of the switch sort of feeling, it's November. Frankly, I love this month for two reasons. First, it's my birth month, and my mom always made the day special. We couldn't afford extravagant gifts, but what she gave was something you can't put a price tag on. She made me feel unbelievably special, like a princess for the day.

It would begin the night before, as she set my stick-straight hair with pink foam rollers before bedtime (picture the sleepover scene from Grease, except a nerdy-looking girl with coke bottle glasses). Then I'd wake and get to decide my birthday dinner. My sister usually complained at my choice, but it was my day, and perhaps I secretly chose something she didn't like to feel like I hand the upperhand—even if for just one day. My dad often made my birthday cakes, and one year created the most amazing looking Garfield and Odie cakes (I said I was a geek folks), complete with chocolate-covered cherry noses.

The second reason I love this month is because it's the start of a warm, celebratory season. Everyone seems to have a bit more pep to their step and sparkle in their eyes. It's a time of wonder, childhood fantasies and to give thanks. And so, if you're still planning your Thanksgiving menus, I'll be posting some recipes sure to make this year's meal is deliciously easy. First up are ricotta pumpkin fritters below. They're my twist on zeppoles, an addictive Italian fried dough.

The wonderful Jen Schall will be posting an excellent tutorial on creaming vs. cutting butter later in the week. Also up are the 411 on mashed potatoes, a no-cook cranberry salsa and you can get started adding the ingredients for my sweet potato, ricotta and leek souffle to your shopping list. Need a foolproof dessert? Swap out apples for the berries in my free form tart and skip the fuss of fluting all those piecrusts.

Golden Ricotta Pumpkin Fritters

Makes about  48 small fritters

Homemade pumpkin puree lends a depth of flavor to this recipe. See the note below for making your own.

These fritters cook up quick and are best served hot, so wait until guests start arriving to make them.

 

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

3 Tablespoons granulated sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

8 ounces ricotta cheese, well drained

1/2 cup pureed pumpkin

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Canola oil, for frying

Confectioner's sugar, for garnish

 

1. Fill a heavy-bottomed deep saucepan halfway with canola oil. Heat the oil to 375ºF degrees.

2. Meanwhile, whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and spices together in a medium bowl. Set aside.

3. Add the ricotta cheese, pumpkin, eggs and vanilla extract to a medium bowl. Beat with a fork until mixed well. Pour over flour mixture and stir until wet and dry ingredients are incorporated, being careful not to overmix.

 

That's Butler Pure Vanilla Extract—8 ounces for only $10!

I discovered it on the lower east side on my birthday last year.

4. Drop a scant teaspoon of the mixture at a time into the heated oil. Fry until light golden brown, about 30 seconds on each side. Drain on a parchment lined baking sheet.

5. Pile drained fritters on a platter and sift powdered sugar over the top if serving for dessert, or with a ramekin of savory jam.

PUMPKIN PUREE: Cut a small pie pumpkin (also called sugar pumpkins) in half, scoop out the seeds and place cut side down on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake at 400º until flesh is tender when pierced with a fork, about 30 to 40 minutes depending on the size. Let cool completely, then scoop out flesh and add to the work bowl of a food processor. Process until smooth. Spoon into a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a bowl for 10 minutes to let any excess water drain.