In Jennie's Kitchen

star-anise spiced apple cider

Before I tell you how I've finally made friends with my slow cooker, I wanted to let you all know about a new project of mine, called The Family Table. Everyone's welcome, but it's especially handy for time-pressed parents looking for answers on how to make home-cooked meals a part of their regular routine. I'll be talking about feeding kids real food, and giving tips for making cooking fun instead of feeling like just another chore. First up is my mushroom bolognese recipe, so if you saw my tweets about it a few weeks back, go on over to The Family Table for a visit and get the recipe.

thanksgiving countdown

Today I found myself strolling through the Union Square Greenmarket after finally meeting Julia. It thrills me to meet twitter friends in real life, and is even more rewarding when they turn out to be as wonderful in person. I'd made note on my pass through the market before we met of a bread stand, Buon Pane. The sourdough baguettes looked beautiful and they were my back up plan if I didn't feel up to walking to Balthazar to get the very necessary ingredient for my stuffing.

I got home, baguette in hand from Buon Pane (it was too cold and windy to walk to Soho) and diced it into cubes after cleaning up dinner (beef stew over hand-cut pappardelle if you're interested). This will probably be my last post this week so I have ample time to finish up work and get started on the rest of my Thanksgiving prep work. Curious about the menu? Yeah, I thought so. The main course is turkey...of course (ha, get it, course? Imagine the poor Mr. who has to laugh at my jokes).

I don't brine and I'm not into fancy glazes. Frankly, I've never had a dry bird by stuffing a heart attack's load of butter under the skin and roasting on high heat for about 30 minutes, then reducing 75 degrees or so for the rest of the roasting time. I know you want exact temperatures but in all honesty in changes every year. I usually pull my Fannie Farmer cookbook off the shelf to gauge roasting temps and times. The turkey is just one thing I refuse to stress about and maybe that's why it always comes out looking gorgeous and tasting phenomenal. As for the rest of the menu, there'll be an antipasto platter, broccoli, smoky creamed kale, apple pie, candied nuts if I have time, and the rest of the edible cast goes something like this:

Dorie's biscuits - may even use some rendered leaf lard!

Here's a quick & easy homemade bread recipe too.

sweet potato, ricotta and leek souffle

These cubes will become stuffing with a recipe from memory.

Perhaps this will be the year I write it down!

It's filled with herbed sausage, carrots, celery, onions, pecans or chestnuts

depending on my mood, some eggs and seasonings.

 

caramel pecan pumpkin pie

You could even start the meal with this velvety butternut squash soup. And, if you're skipping sweet potatoes for some old fashioned ones, here are some great tips from Jen Schall on making the perfect mash:

Type - The type of potatoes you choose will make all of difference.  Starchy potatoes like Russets (often called Idaho potatoes) or Yukon Gold potatoes yield nice, fluffy mashed potatoes. Avoid using red potatoes or new potatoes that tend to be waxy and lower in starch.

Texture - To get perfectly smooth and creamy mashed potatoes, try using a potato ricer or a food mill to mash the potatoes.  If you prefer a chunkier texture, go for a wire masher and mash by hand.  To avoid the dreaded “wallpaper paste” potatoes, be sure not to over-mash, since this will break down the starches and create a pasty potato.

Taste - Think beyond the traditional butter and milk in your potatoes this year.  Experiment with new flavors like bacon, sour cream and chives, roasted garlic, or even jalepeño!

Need something sweet for your weekend brunch plans? How about my apple cranberry crumb cake, apple allspice muffins, or cinnamon buns? I'm happy to be on call for other Thanksgiving questions, and the best way to get a quick response is on twitter. 

Lastly, the most important thing to remember while getting ready for Thanksgiving is it's about being grateful for all we have every day of our lives. So, don't sweat it if a side or two aren't piping hot, and who cares if you're pie crust is a little imperfect? Look at each and every person sitting at your dinner table. They are there because you share a special connection. For me the holidays are about creating memories and traditions for my daughters. Before I truss the turkey, I'll be making a donation to Share Our Strength: Share Your Season to help end childhood hunger. I hope you'll join me. Have a very happy holiday, and see you next week.

golden ricotta pumpkin fritters

Hard to believe Thanksgiving is next week. It seems the period between Labor Day and Halloween drags a bit, settling into school and accepting that summer really is over. Then, with a flip of the switch sort of feeling, it's November. Frankly, I love this month for two reasons. First, it's my birth month, and my mom always made the day special. We couldn't afford extravagant gifts, but what she gave was something you can't put a price tag on. She made me feel unbelievably special, like a princess for the day.

It would begin the night before, as she set my stick-straight hair with pink foam rollers before bedtime (picture the sleepover scene from Grease, except a nerdy-looking girl with coke bottle glasses). Then I'd wake and get to decide my birthday dinner. My sister usually complained at my choice, but it was my day, and perhaps I secretly chose something she didn't like to feel like I hand the upperhand—even if for just one day. My dad often made my birthday cakes, and one year created the most amazing looking Garfield and Odie cakes (I said I was a geek folks), complete with chocolate-covered cherry noses.

The second reason I love this month is because it's the start of a warm, celebratory season. Everyone seems to have a bit more pep to their step and sparkle in their eyes. It's a time of wonder, childhood fantasies and to give thanks. And so, if you're still planning your Thanksgiving menus, I'll be posting some recipes sure to make this year's meal is deliciously easy. First up are ricotta pumpkin fritters below. They're my twist on zeppoles, an addictive Italian fried dough.

The wonderful Jen Schall will be posting an excellent tutorial on creaming vs. cutting butter later in the week. Also up are the 411 on mashed potatoes, a no-cook cranberry salsa and you can get started adding the ingredients for my sweet potato, ricotta and leek souffle to your shopping list. Need a foolproof dessert? Swap out apples for the berries in my free form tart and skip the fuss of fluting all those piecrusts.

Golden Ricotta Pumpkin Fritters

Makes about  48 small fritters

Homemade pumpkin puree lends a depth of flavor to this recipe. See the note below for making your own.

These fritters cook up quick and are best served hot, so wait until guests start arriving to make them.

 

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

3 Tablespoons granulated sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

8 ounces ricotta cheese, well drained

1/2 cup pureed pumpkin

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Canola oil, for frying

Confectioner's sugar, for garnish

 

1. Fill a heavy-bottomed deep saucepan halfway with canola oil. Heat the oil to 375ºF degrees.

2. Meanwhile, whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and spices together in a medium bowl. Set aside.

3. Add the ricotta cheese, pumpkin, eggs and vanilla extract to a medium bowl. Beat with a fork until mixed well. Pour over flour mixture and stir until wet and dry ingredients are incorporated, being careful not to overmix.

 

That's Butler Pure Vanilla Extract—8 ounces for only $10!

I discovered it on the lower east side on my birthday last year.

4. Drop a scant teaspoon of the mixture at a time into the heated oil. Fry until light golden brown, about 30 seconds on each side. Drain on a parchment lined baking sheet.

5. Pile drained fritters on a platter and sift powdered sugar over the top if serving for dessert, or with a ramekin of savory jam.

PUMPKIN PUREE: Cut a small pie pumpkin (also called sugar pumpkins) in half, scoop out the seeds and place cut side down on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake at 400º until flesh is tender when pierced with a fork, about 30 to 40 minutes depending on the size. Let cool completely, then scoop out flesh and add to the work bowl of a food processor. Process until smooth. Spoon into a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a bowl for 10 minutes to let any excess water drain.

 

Sunday Best: Homemade Waffles

 

A few months ago I was at a friend's house having breakfast. Four adults and three kids had eaten through the lemon blueberry waffles he made with lightening speed, and when the calls came for more, he replied "there's no more mix left". Since he's such an avid cook, I was surprised he'd rely on a box or package to make waffles. Then a few days ago I was watching a video on Good Bite where some top food bloggers made some confessions. Turns out Catherine McCord from weelicious.com is all about Aunt Jemima on weekend mornings (Jaden Hair is a brownie from the box gal and Jeanne Kelley relies on canned stock vs. homemade).

Eggs in a Nest

I love eggs. They're an inexpensive source of protein compared to meat, even if you buy them at the farmer's market, and filled with lots of natural vitamins and minerals. The yolks are also rich in choline, a nutrient important for brain development, making them a great kid food too. I'm not sure they work on the older, already developed brains, as the Mr. still forgets most of what I tell him. That may be just be a side effect of marriage I suppose.

Eggs are also my back up "I don't have a lot of time to cook ingredient". Saute some vegetables and you've got a frittata. There's also nothing like perfectly fried or sunny side up eggs with salad, well...and maybe some bacon too. A girl cannot live on sweets alone and this week I've been in dessert testing mode. I had eggs from my favorite farmer, Dan at Grazin' Angus Acres, and decided to make birds in a nest for lunch. Instead of phyllo or puff pastry, I lined an individual casserole dish (like the kind you'd use for French onion soup) with multi-grain pita. In went the eggs, topped with a splash of cream, some Parmesan and fresh black pepper. I continued with my writing and less than 20 minutes later, I had a pretty elegant-looking meal and one more egg recipe to add to my files.

Blueberry Cookie Crumble

 

Friends always ask how I create my recipes. It’s a combination of good quality ingredients and inspiration. For both, I usually head to the Greenmarket, and there’s lots of inspiration to be found this time of year. Berries are in season and while they’re delicious to eat by the handful, they provide the perfect landscape for quick and easy desserts. This week I got an invitation to a Scharffen Berger event at the French Culinary Institute hosted by none other than renowned chef Jacques Pepin. Pasty over at Family, Friends and Food did a great two-part post about the event and posted some wonderful pics so go check them out. I'm going to focus on what I'm doing with the free chocolate they tucked in our goody bags.

On the menu was more chocolate than you can imagine but there was a particular dessert that caught my attention. It was titled Chocolate Raspberry Gratin. Tiny ceramic ramekins emerged from the oven with a jam-like raspberry filling studded with bits of melted chocolate and crunchy butter cookie crumbs. This was the only recipe not included in the press materials, so it was up to me to recreate it at home. I had tons of blueberries on hand to support my 14-month old’s pint a day addiction, so the star ingredient would have to be recast. At first I thought blueberries and chocolate would be too strong a match for each other. A bit of sugar solved that problem and made them BFFs. There were no butter cookies on hand but I did have some homemade chocolate chip cookie dough in the fridge —enough to make a dozen so we could snack while the real dessert was baking.

I’m tempted to add this to my next dinner party menu as a do-it-yourself dessert. I’d set out an assortment of berries and different cookie crumbles along with the sugar and chocolate and let everyone make their own creations in mini-ramekins. Come to think of it, it’s a great playdate activity too and delicious way to meet the FDA's 5-A-Day suggestion.

 

 

Blueberry Cookie Crumble

Serves 4

Feel free to mix this up with your favorite cookies and whatever berries are in season. Making cookie crumbs is easy—just put whole ones in a plastic zip-top bag and give 'em a few whacks with a rolling pin (also a great stress reliever).

 

1 pint blueberries

2 tablespoons sugar

1 ounce chopped chocolate

1/3 cup chocolate chip cookies crumbs

2 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces

 

1. Preheat oven to 350Fº. Arrange blueberries in an even layer in one 9-inch by 2-inch or two 5-inch by 2-inch oven-proof oval casserole dish. Sprinkle sugar and chopped chocolate over blueberries. Evenly sprinkle cookie crumbs on top and dot with pieces of butter.

2. Bake for 30 minutes, or until jammy and bubbling. Spoon into deep bowls and serve warm, with a dollop of fresh whipped cream, if desired.

 

Zucchini Parmesan Hummus

Waste not, want not has never been more important than today. Between the economy and general state of the planet, I view each meal as a gift to be savored and enjoyed. That being said, I sometimes go overboard at the farmer’s market this time of year. It’s hard to look at the bounty of fruits and vegetables and not get carried away. Last week I bought some zucchini that I’d planned to use in a frittata. They sat in the vegetable crisper for a few days. Fearful they’d go to waste, I sliced them and roasted with some olive oil, salt and pepper, intending to play around with some roasted zucchini muffin recipes.

A few days after that, the guilt became overwhelming. Between the normal breakfast, lunch and dinner routines, mountains of work, and the two kidlets, I never had the time to make those muffins. Then I found inspiration yesterday in Mark Bittman's column in the New York Times. He mentioned a friend of his purees whatever leftover side veggies he has on hand to make a dip. 

It happened to be lunchtime and I'd been staring at this can of chick peas I took out to make hummus. And so, my recipe for Zucchini Parmesan Hummus was born, giving that roasted squash a tasty new lease on life. It was the perfect lunch with some slices of toasted baguette, and I know it’ll also make an elegant appetizer at my next dinner party.

A few pantry notes before we cut to the chase. Soaking and cooking chick peas fresh is wonderful but how many of us really have the time (remember, I said I have two kids, right?). There are many good-quality canned options out there. One of my favorites is from a local store called Sahadi's. Unlike other brands which can be mushy and unappealing, the beans are "al dente" and retain their shape, almost like making them yourself. 

Let's also talk olive oil. Two store brand favorites are from Trader Joe's. There's a California reserve, which they were out of stock this week. My back up fave is the Sicilian Selezione, pictured below. I also keep, Lucini on hand for those special occassions, like garnishing this hummus with a swirl on top. (A big thanks to Lucini for providing a sample of their Fig & walnut Savory Balsamic Artisan Vinaigrette in the Food Fete media bags—it was divine). This weekend I'm buying more zucchini and even they sit in the fridge for a few days, at least I'll have a quick way to shed the guilt and yummy way to use 'em up.

Zucchini Parmesan Hummus
Makes about 2 cups

1 cup chick peas, drained & rinsed
1 cup roasted or grilled zucchini
Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
Salt & freshly ground pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Add the chick peas, zucchini, lemon juice, cheese, salt and pepper to the food processor bowl attachment on your Cusinart Stand Mixer. Process until mixture forms a chunky paste, about 45 seconds. Slowly drizzle in oil and continue processing until hummus becomes smooth and creamy, one to two more minutes. Serve with cut up vegetables, crackers, pita or slices of baguette.

Related Links

Zucchini Muffins

Key Lime Spritzer

I don't keep soda in the house, and every now and again, the urge for a sweet burst of carbonation hits me. This usually happens while the baby is napping or at midnight—both times when running out to the market aren't an option. About two months ago, such a craving arose and I approached it as I would any cooking challenge and decided to see I could do with the ingredients I had on hand.

A quick survery showed some seltzer, and tucked away in the back of the fridge was a bottle of Nellie & Joe's Famous Key West Lime Juice. I also had some simple syrup in there. A few minutes later, an icy cold rocks glass was filled with a spash of this and spritz of that, and I was sipping a citrusy drink with a hint of coconut flavor. Add it to this weekend's festivities and kick it up with a shot of bourbon or tequila for a head start on the fireworks.

KEY LIME SPRITZER

makes as many as you want

Selter or sparkling water

Nellie & Joe's Key West Lime Juice

Simple syrup

This is really a no-recipe drink. It's mostly seltzer with a splash of key lime juice and simple syrup—the amount depend on your tastebuds. If you're serving it at a party, I suggest making a large batch and refrigerating it a few hours before so you can just pour and serve as needed.

Note: Nellie &Joe's also makes a 100% All Natural juice.

Backyard Basil Pesto + Taste This! Cookbook Giveaway

Pesto’s been part of my life since an early age. My aunt’s amazing green thumb yielded more basil than you can imagine on her Brooklyn roof deck. I didn’t fall in love with it though until I was in my early twenties. What really inspired me to get to my Italian roots was a co-worker’s Italian husband. I’m talking born and bred in Northern Italy, so eating there was always a treat and very eye-opening compared to my Italian-American upbringing. For the first time I experienced pesto that was creamy and delicately coated each strand of spaghetti. It was saturated in oil and didn’t have enough garlic capable of warding off vampires.

Perhaps my journalistic skills weren’t honed then, or I was just too busy enjoying the food, but for whatever reason I didn’t ask Diego for his recipe. About two months later, I did find a book that would unlock the answers for me. I was roaming through a used bookstore in the North Beach section of San Francisco and came across a copy of Northern Italian Cooking by Francesco Ghedini. Turns out the book was published the year I was born, so 1973 had a couple of good things cooking back then.

The secret had been revealed. I’m convinced butter makes everything better, and it’s certainly the case in this pesto. It lends a creamy texture and flavor. While this recipe was inspired by Ghedini’s it is my own unique blend. I used parsley instead of spinach because that’s what I had in the garden, and cut back a lot on the garlic—my tummy likes it better that way. Feel free to let loose and and more if you really like a garlicky bite. Ghedini also included Fiore Sardo in his recipe, an Italian cheese with a wonderfully nutty taste that I’m sure would be a good compliment to the pignoli nuts. I used the Parmesan I had in the fridge. And remember, a little goes a long way, so add just enough to coat your pasta.

Basil Pesto
Makes 2/3 cup (enough for two adults and two kids)

This classic Italian sauce is delicious served over pasta or drizzled over fresh mozzarella cheese and sliced tomatoes. Serve it slightly heated or at room temperature. I find adding the garlic in slices, rather than the whole cloves, ensures it blends into the final sauce better.

¾ cup packed fresh basil leaves
1 tablespoon fresh parsley
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
4 tablespoons butter, softened
¼ cup pignoli nuts (also called pine nuts)
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Add the basil and parsley to the workbowl of a food processor. Pulse until roughly chopped. Add the garlic, butter, nuts, cheese and salt and pepper. Process until it forms a paste, then slowly drizzle olive oil in through feed tube, continuing to process the mixture until it begins to emulsify and becomes a creamy sauce-like consistency.

TIP: At the end of summer, I make a batch of pesto using any surplus basil and freeze it in ice cube trays. This way I have "fresh" basil to add to my marinara sauce throughout the long, sometimes cold, winters here in NYC. You can leave out the pignoli nuts, as I do, for this purpose.

 

There's always room for one more at any Italian table. I know my Twitter pal Gina von Esmarch would agree (and one day I will make it to hers' in San Francisco). Gina has a wonderful cookbook of friend and family favorites she's collected over the years, and she's giving one away a copy of Taste This! to a lucky reader of In Jennie's Kitchen. Whadya have to do to win? Good question, and thanks for asking. Take a trip to Gina's cyber kitchen over at Bowl Licker and leave a comment here telling me the star ingredient of her dessert, which is perfect for the upcoming July 4th holiday. Contest ends 11:59pm Friday, July 3rd and the winner will be chosen using random.org. Good luck!

 

RELATED LINKS

Perfect Pesto - The Naptime Chef

Going Nuts

This past holiday season, I decided to make something special for the kitchen as a gift for my clients, family and friends. I had no idea what a delicious hit these candied nuts would be. My five-year-old gobbled them up and more than one friend said it made for tasty travels on their holiday vacation. My daughter's teacher even asked if she could buy some from me.

There do good, there's no reason to shelve the recipe until December. In fact, they're perfect for gift giving anytime of year. I made a batch to give out to the teachers and school crossing guards for today's last day of school.

Jennie's Cocoa Candied Nuts
Makes 3 cups
One taste and you'll be glad to know this recipe can easily be doubled or tripled. You can even swap cumin or curry for the paprika for a Middle Eastern spiced treat.

½ cup brown sugar
½ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
2 Tablespoons cocoa powder
1 large egg white, at room temperature
1 Tablespoon cold water
One pound assorted nuts

1. Preheat oven to 300ºF. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper; set aside.
2. Add the sugars, salt, cinnamon, paprika and cocoa to bowl of the food processor attachment of your Cuisinart Stand Mixer. Pulse until there are no chunks remaining.
3 .In a large bowl, whisk egg whites and water until frothy but not stiff. Add nuts and stir to coat well. Sprinkle sugar mixture over nuts and toss, or stir with a rubber spatula, until evenly coated.
4. Divide nut mixture onto prepared baking sheets. Bake for 30 minutes, stirring halfway through. Let cool for a few minutes; break up any large pieces. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place, for up to two weeks.