In Jennie's Kitchen

my best chocolate chip cookies

The perfect chocolate chip cookie. Is there anything left that hasn't been said about it? Whether it's your grandmother's or David Leite's, every day someone claims to have the best chocolate chip cookie recipe you'll ever need. I've literally worked on this one for years.

I kid you, not.

I'd been making chocolate chip cookie dough and storing it in the freezer for over a decade and always wondered why it tasted so much better when I baked it after the fact, instead of when the dough was fresh made. Well, unless you've been living under a rock, you probably know why having read David's article. And if you just came to from an extended sleep, the reason makes absolute sense. Spoiler alert: A chill time in the fridge allows the flour time to absorb all the flavors and moisture.

I like to call it marinating time, which always illicits a chuckle or two. Gail prefers "dry aging", and that's why I adore her.

 

I swear this was not a posed picture. It's the hazard of juggling a cookie shoot and watching a 22-month old at the same time.

So back to this best of the best cookie slug out. It's like the wild west in food blogging. What makes my recipe so different, you ask? Well, I don't claim it to be the best and only recipe you'll ever want or need. Life is too short for definitives, don't you think?

After years of making variations of this recipe, it is my best chocolate chip cookie. An original recipe that has been in the works for years. And while I'm happy to share some credit with Mr. Leite, whom I immensely respect, I'd been doing that marinating thing for over a decade. He just helped understand why it made such a difference.

Oh, and he also won me over with the chocolate discs. They lovingly spread as they melt, leaving you with a bit of chocolate in each bite. I'm not going to tell you these are the only type of chocolate you can use, though. That's too fussy for a cookie of this simple nature. I'm lucky enough to live near a store that sells Guittard 55% chocolate discs for only $4.20 a pound. Take that Fresh Direct and Whole Foods with your hoity toity prices.

No, rather than dictate what type of cookie you should eat, I want to help you find the right cookie for you. So, if you like regular chips, don't worry about the cookie police. I'll throw them off your scent. Frankly, Ghiradelli and Scharffen Berger make great quality chips that I've happily enjoyed in past incarnations of these cookies.

One thing I will urge, though, is to stick to the baking time as noted. The'll look undercooked when you first take them from the oven. You'll be tempted to put them back in for another minute, or even two. I've been guilty of said "crime" and my punishment was a too crisp cookie with nary a chewy center. The reward is in the inner-chewiness of the cookie, so trust me. The two minute cooling period on a rack will finish the "cooking process".

Most recipes I create are inspired for or by someone else. I was a bit selfish in this one. These are my cookies. I created the taste and texture just for moi. But I'm not too selfish to share the recipe with you. In fact, I'm going to be quite generous and share lots of these cookies at Annie's Blue Ribbon General Store on Saturday, March 27th for my friend Alison's book party. Come join us from 3:00 to 5:00pm for some of these cookies and a sneak preview of my deep chocolate cherry cashew ones. And, yes, there'll be plenty of cold milk for dunking.

devil's food cupcakes + rich chocolate frosting

Since I consider honesty one of my strong suits, I must confess I'm eating one of these cupcakes while I write this post. I needed sustenance to get through a late night of playing catch up after the school chancellor declared a snow day. I love my girls, and while I more often than not try to stop and smell the roses, next week is winter break. Needless to say I'm starting the month on a deficit when it comes to available work time.

These cupcakes have super powers. I'm convinced of that, so please don't burst my bubble. I can't help but smile while licking the rich, creamy frosting from my teeth after taking a bite. Yes, I like to lick the smudge of frosting off my fingers too. Oh dear, I can only imagine the spam that last sentence will illicit.

But, back to the cupcakes. I didn't research the origins of naming a cake devil's food, but I'm guessing it has something to do with the irresistible taste. I know a thing or two about both baking and eating this type of cake. In fact, I'm an expert on finding the best in New York City—outside of my own kitchen now that is. I remember telling my girlfriend my weight gain was the equivalent to eating our then four-year old daughters back when I was pregnant with IRP eight years ago, with a raging chocolate cake craving.

These cupcakes are also very accommodating, and stay fresh stored on a cake stand loosely covered with plastic wrap. I happen to be sitting right next to said cake stand, and since will power doesn't rank up there with honesty in strong suits, I'm eating ate one. I keep adding extra push ups and crunches to my workout routine...once I get started again. The current count must be four-digits by now.

Oh, yes the cupcakes. Well, I'm sure you heard about them if you follow me on twitter or are a fan on Facebook. My mission began two weeks ago when the Mr. told me he wanted a ring ding inspired cake for his recent birthday celebration. I made three cakes in four days. Then decided to make another one and these cupcakes a few days ago, after his birthday. Call it good measure. Or maybe it was a premonition of the impending snow day. They made the girls very happy, especially the ones with sprinkles. This glaze topping reminds of the same cupcake they used to make at my favorite neighborhood bakery that closed six years ago *sniff*. They used to sell them for only 30 cents—35 if you wanted them with a creamy center.

walnut fudge brownies

There's nothing like a nut-studded, fudgy brownie to cure a chocolate hankering. Problem is many recipes lure me in with promises of chewy, chocolate squares of goodness only to leave me crestfallen from the first bite. Thankfully, I've created the perfect brownie recipe to satisfy my craving whenever the mood strikes.

The first hurdle to overcome is the notion of a one bowl batter. Like all good things, this one comes at a price—a few extra dishes to wash. One for melting the chocolate and butter, another for combining the dry ingredients, and the last for the most important part—whisking the eggs and sugar. This last bowl is where all the other ingredients will eventually land to create the batter for the best brownies...ever. Yes, I'm that serious about this recipe.

chocolate orange spice cake

I've got a very special event today that called for a new recipe. I was going to wait until after the fact to tell you all about it but I figure since you've all been so supportive  and making donations to the 12 Days of Sharing campaign, it's time to give back with a truly special recipe. I'll be serving it to François Payard and Barbara Fairchild and trying not to get too caught up in the potential hysteria it can induce. Yes, I'd love to win the grand prize—a trip to Vegas Uncorked, but what I really want is to turn out a dessert I believe in. If it tickles the judges fancy, then that'll be the icing on the cake. It's already passed the taste test with the Mr. and the kiddies, and really they're the ones I pour my heart and soul into cooking for everyday. They are the ones that really matter here.

It always helps to start with quality ingredients, and very lucky for me the folks at Scharffen Berger generously stock my test kitchen (and secretly feed my chocolate addiction). I'm also excited to add Scharffen Berger to our list of donors—they've donated a gift basket of assorted chocolate for nibbling and baking valued at $100. All the more reason to go make a donation now, since each one automatically enters you into the giveaway.

caramel pecan pumpkin pie

 

Last week, I got it in my head that I wanted to a make a no-bake pumpkin pie. And I wanted one lighter and on the creamy side. Well, a few pies later and more time than any no-bake recipe should require, I learned an hour in the oven is well worth it and requires much less effort. Now, where do I begin? Should we talk about the flaky pie crust? The smooth, light as air creamy filling? Maybe the thin layer of caramel that makes my toes wiggle with excitement just typing the words?

I've searched years for the perfect pie crust recipe and posted my favorite one by Dorie Greenspan over the summer. The recipe for this pie is pretty much the same except I substituted rendered leaf lard for half the butter. I've been in love with the stuff ever since Melissa Clark wrote about it three years ago in the New York Times. Vegetarians beware, and same goes for the faint of heart when reading Clark's description of the process for making it. My babysitter asked one day, and the poor thing nearly fainted when I told her. Once you get past that, though, you're in for a treat. It really does make for the best piecrust. And Clark is right about that porky flavor. It's a crazy taste sensation but for a girl who loves swine, mix it with caramel, pecans and pumpkin...I almost fell off the chair just thinking about it. In fact, there's a bit of drool hanging from the corners of my mouth.

Now, for the filling. I had just made some of Alice's caramel sauce and decided it would be a perfect layer nestled between the crust and pumpkin filling. I was right, and am not at all shy about claiming bragging rights. Warming the spices in a skillet before adding to the pumpkin mixture really awakens the flavor, so it's well worth the extra few minutes and dirty skillet. Cream is my other secret ingredient, so while this pie isn't going to make the American Heart Association's top 10 list, it'll definitely win first place at your Thanksgiving table.

caramel pecan pumpkin pie

makes one 9-inch deep dish pie

One single Dorie's Perfect Pie Crust (just halve the recipe)

1/2 cup Alice's caramel sauce

3 large eggs, beaten

15-ounces fresh or canned pumpkin puree

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

5-ounce can evaporated milk

5 ounces heavy cream

1 cup chopped, very lightly toasted pecans

Preheat oven to 425ºF. Fit unbaked piecrust into a 9-inch deep dish pie plate. Spread caramel sauce evenly over bottom; set aside.

Heat spices in small skillet over medium-low heat until fragrant, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Add 2 eggs, pumpkin puree, warmed spices, evaporated milk and cream to a medium bowl. Whisk together until well combined. Pour into piecrust over caramel layer. Evenly sprinkle chopped pecans on top, gently pressing them into the filling. Brush edges of crust with some of the remaining beaten egg (store the rest in the fridge if you plan on making more pies this week). Bake at 425ºF for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature 350ºF and bake for another 45 minutes, until the center is set (will look firm and not jiggly—no it's not a real cooking term, but you get the point, right?). Let cool completely before serving.

A few notes: I'm tempted to up the caramel sauce to 1 cup next time I make this. Also, don't toast the pecans too much since they will cook during the baking process. I used the empty evaporated milk can to measure out the cream since it was 5 ounces anyway. And if you're a vegetarian, or the mere thought of rendered leaf lard sends you running for the hills, feel free to sub shortening or use all butter for your pie crust.

golden ricotta pumpkin fritters

Hard to believe Thanksgiving is next week. It seems the period between Labor Day and Halloween drags a bit, settling into school and accepting that summer really is over. Then, with a flip of the switch sort of feeling, it's November. Frankly, I love this month for two reasons. First, it's my birth month, and my mom always made the day special. We couldn't afford extravagant gifts, but what she gave was something you can't put a price tag on. She made me feel unbelievably special, like a princess for the day.

It would begin the night before, as she set my stick-straight hair with pink foam rollers before bedtime (picture the sleepover scene from Grease, except a nerdy-looking girl with coke bottle glasses). Then I'd wake and get to decide my birthday dinner. My sister usually complained at my choice, but it was my day, and perhaps I secretly chose something she didn't like to feel like I hand the upperhand—even if for just one day. My dad often made my birthday cakes, and one year created the most amazing looking Garfield and Odie cakes (I said I was a geek folks), complete with chocolate-covered cherry noses.

The second reason I love this month is because it's the start of a warm, celebratory season. Everyone seems to have a bit more pep to their step and sparkle in their eyes. It's a time of wonder, childhood fantasies and to give thanks. And so, if you're still planning your Thanksgiving menus, I'll be posting some recipes sure to make this year's meal is deliciously easy. First up are ricotta pumpkin fritters below. They're my twist on zeppoles, an addictive Italian fried dough.

The wonderful Jen Schall will be posting an excellent tutorial on creaming vs. cutting butter later in the week. Also up are the 411 on mashed potatoes, a no-cook cranberry salsa and you can get started adding the ingredients for my sweet potato, ricotta and leek souffle to your shopping list. Need a foolproof dessert? Swap out apples for the berries in my free form tart and skip the fuss of fluting all those piecrusts.

Golden Ricotta Pumpkin Fritters

Makes about  48 small fritters

Homemade pumpkin puree lends a depth of flavor to this recipe. See the note below for making your own.

These fritters cook up quick and are best served hot, so wait until guests start arriving to make them.

 

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

3 Tablespoons granulated sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

8 ounces ricotta cheese, well drained

1/2 cup pureed pumpkin

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Canola oil, for frying

Confectioner's sugar, for garnish

 

1. Fill a heavy-bottomed deep saucepan halfway with canola oil. Heat the oil to 375ºF degrees.

2. Meanwhile, whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and spices together in a medium bowl. Set aside.

3. Add the ricotta cheese, pumpkin, eggs and vanilla extract to a medium bowl. Beat with a fork until mixed well. Pour over flour mixture and stir until wet and dry ingredients are incorporated, being careful not to overmix.

 

That's Butler Pure Vanilla Extract—8 ounces for only $10!

I discovered it on the lower east side on my birthday last year.

4. Drop a scant teaspoon of the mixture at a time into the heated oil. Fry until light golden brown, about 30 seconds on each side. Drain on a parchment lined baking sheet.

5. Pile drained fritters on a platter and sift powdered sugar over the top if serving for dessert, or with a ramekin of savory jam.

PUMPKIN PUREE: Cut a small pie pumpkin (also called sugar pumpkins) in half, scoop out the seeds and place cut side down on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake at 400º until flesh is tender when pierced with a fork, about 30 to 40 minutes depending on the size. Let cool completely, then scoop out flesh and add to the work bowl of a food processor. Process until smooth. Spoon into a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a bowl for 10 minutes to let any excess water drain.

 

Brown Butter Bourbon Banana Bread

Something about the heat and humidity in my apartment creates a tropical setting, making it impossible to keep bananas from over ripening. One day, they're perfect and sweet, the next—mush. I often have the best intentions to make banana bread, and well, life gets in the way and it doesn't make the cut onto my recipe testing schedule. Besides, I created a really delicious one for Cuisinart two years ago, so there also didn't seem reason to mess around with it. That is until Sassy Radish went and posted about her Brown Butter Pound Cake.

Even since, I'd had brown butter on the brain and couldn't shake the thought, let alone the taste that was on the tip of my tongue. Then I got to thinking about these over ripe bananas. My "home office" is basically the kitchen and my desk is the island. And the bananas, spotted and browning, sit there laughing at me. This week I had the last laugh. The wheels started turning, out came the old recipe, and it was time to get baking.

Apple Pie Pumpkin Cake + a serving of controversy

Can you believe this little 'ol cake caused a bit of controversy this week? Rather than rehash it, you can go here to read the thread. Well, I get by with a little help from my friends, and their words of encouragement were very uplifting. Perhaps it was tough to swallow because it's the first negative downright mean and ill-willed comment I've gotten. Anyone who's met me knows I'm as sweet and honest as that darn pie, so why would anyone be so vicious? And so is life in this virtual world. Some people hold their head high, and work hard, creating and sharing from their heart...and others, well, you know the rest.

Trutas: A Portuguese Treat

 

The journey home after vacation is always filled with a bit of sadness. Each year I await our annual trip to hear the soothing sounds of Cape Cod Bay and to enjoy a more relaxed pace of life. But, what I really miss is the two-week love affair with The Portuguese Bakery on Commercial Street in Provincetown. Last year I finally tried a pastry I've been eyeing for some time: trutas. It's a good thing these tiny triangles of sweet potato-filled fried dough cost $2.05 each— it helps limit your intake. Each bite bursts with a savory, sweet potato and cinnamon scented filling...and bourbon.

After returning home last September, I worked from memory and cobbled together notes from a few recipes I found before hitting the test kitchen. While brandy is called for in some recipes, I opted for bourbon since the sign in the case of The Portuguese Bakery lists it as an ingredient. The amount is mere, at one tablespoon to make 48 pastries, so need to worry about letting kids enjoy these tasty treats.

Portuguese pastries are also traditionally very sweet. I decided to cut back on the sugar since I really wanted the flavor of the sweet potatoes to shine through. While recipe testing, a friend's daughter insisted it was okay to eat as many as she wanted since they're filled with vegetables. While that may not be quite true, they are indeed delicious to eat—especially now that I can enjoy them anytime of year.

 

TRUTAS

Makes 48

I feel in love with this sweet potato-filled pastry at The Portuguese Bakery in Provincetown, MA and set out to make my own on returning home to New York. While some recipes call for boiling the sweet potatoes and draining them overnight to release the water, I suggest microwaving them. It concentrates the flavor and greatly reduces the preparation time.

 

FOR THE DOUGH

3 cups flour

2 Tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon salt

5 Tablespoons butter, melted

5 Tablespoons vegetable shortening, melted

1 Tablespoon bourbon

½ cup freshly squeezed orange juice

 

FOR THE FILLING

1 ½ cups pureed, cooked sweet potatoes (see TIP)

¼ cup sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon salt

Freshly grated peel of ½ an orange

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

 

Canola oil for frying

1 ½ Tablespoons sugar mixed with ¼ teaspoon cinnamon

 

To make the dough, add the flour, sugar and salt to the bowl of your Cuisinart Stand Mixer. Mix on low speed for 30 seconds. Add the melted butter, melted vegetable shortening and bourbon; mix on low speed just until wet ingredients are absorbed.

With the mixer on low speed, slowly drizzle in the orange juice until the dough comes together into a rough ball. Dump dough onto a lightly floured counter. Knead once or twice to shape into a smooth ball. Let rest while you prepare the filling.

To make the filling, add the sweet potato puree, sugar, cinnamon, salt, orange peel and nutmeg to the bowl of your Cuisinart Stand Mixer. Mix on medium speed until all ingredients are combined.

Divide dough into four pieces. Roll out each piece to ¼-inch thickness, lifting every few rolls so it doesn't stick to the counter or surface (do not use a lightly floured surface or a floured rolling pin). Scraps can be rerolled until there is no more dough remaining.

Cut into circles using a 3-inch round cutter. Place 1 scant teaspoon of filling in the center of each circle. Fold one half of dough over the other, forming a "half moon" or crescent shape. Place on a parchment lined baking sheet.

Add one-inch of oil to a deep skillet; heat until shimmering. Fry in batches until trutas are deep golden brown, about two minutes each side. Transfer to parchment lined baking sheet and drain for one minute. Roll fried trutas in cinnamon sugar mixture while still warm. Serve immediately or store in an airtight container for up to two days.

 

TIP: Pierce whole sweet potatoes several times with a fork or tip of a paring knife. Place on a microwave-safe dish and cook on high 7 to 9 minutes (depending on size), until inside is tender and can be easily spooned out. Puree using a food processor until smooth.

Peach Raspberry Tart (and a blackberry plum one too)

 

While I love vacation, there are a few allowances I have to make cooking-wise when away from my own kitchen for two weeks. All I need is my chef's knife and a pair of tongs to jumpstart savory meals (although this year I'm also packing my cast-iron skillet), dessert is another story. There are no handheld mixers, let alone the 1000 watt Cuisinart Stand Mixer I normally use. Same goes for the food processor. Now, given the choice, I'd probably take at least the latter with me but watching my husband load our luggage like puzzle pieces, eventually muttering something about how much we're taking (newsflash: we're a family of four and two are kids).

So a few weeks ago I decided to experiment with free form tarts. Mainly because the last thing I want to worry about on vacation is the perfect piecrust. I'm also not sure there's a pie plate in the cupboards there either. Using the crust recipe I adapted from Dorie Greenspan as a start, I tweaked some measurements and decided to use a biscuit-making technique since the food processor wouldn't be an option. An old-fashioned pastry blender did the job of cutting in the butter, but truth be told, even using your fingertips to work it in was fine. Yes, I was worried too about the butter getting to soft, but a quick chill in the fridge and all was fine.

It doesn't matter if your tart is an exact circle, so you can eyeball—no need to pack a ruler too. What I love most about free form tarts (besides all that melt-in-your-mouth buttery crust), is they look imperfectly perfect. Those ragged edges give way to a sweet, bubbly, warm fruit filling, making me forget about the modern conveniences of home.

Blackberry Plum Tart

The trick to a really crisp bottom is preheating the baking sheet. And make sure you use a rimmed sheet, or else you'll have a juicy mess all over the bottom of the oven.

For the pastry dough:

1 1/2 cups flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup sugar

6 ounces cold butter, cut into pieces

3 tablespoons ice cold water

For the filling:

12 plums, pitted and quartered

1/2 pint blackberries

2 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces

1/4 cup sugar

Place a rimmed baking sheet onto the center rack of the oven. Preheat oven to 400º.

To make the pastry dough, add the flour, salt and sugar to a deep bowl; whisk to combine. Scatter the butter pieces over flour mixture and use a pastry blender, two butter knives or your fingers to cut in the butter (this can alternately be done in a food processor). Sprinkle the cold water over the butter-flour mixture and stir with a fork until the dough forms a rough ball. Wrap in plastic and let rest in the refrigerator for 20 to 30 minutes.

On a lightly floured piece of parchment paper, roll the dough out into a 16-inch circle. Scatter the fruit over the dough, leaving a 4-inch border. Sprinkle the sugar over the fruit and dot with the pieces of remaining butter. Fold the dough border up and over to cover the fruit, forming a crust. Leaving the tart on the parchment paper, place it on the heated baking sheet. Bake 40 to 45 minutes, or until pastry is a deep golden and the fruit is bubbling in the center. Let cool for 10 to 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

      

Peach Raspberry Tart

Serves 6 to 8

Follow the directions for making the blackberry plum tart, except use peaches and raspberries instead.

One unbaked pie tart crust

4 peaches, peeled and sliced

1/2 pint raspberries