In Jennie's Kitchen

lemon blueberry muffins + half white flour

There is a fine line between being a "know it all" and a confident learner. Life has too much to offer to think we can possibly consume, let alone understand it all before our physical time on this earth is done.

And yet, there is an exceeding pressure, on kids and adults alike, to be perfect. It's an unrealistic goal. And a boring one too. Heck, if we become perfect, what pleasure would there be in waking each morning?

Three years ago when I ventured out on a freelance career, I had one main goal in mind—never miss a school event, recital or bringing birthday cupcakes to my daughter's classroom ranked pretty high up there. I knew what kind of mother I wanted to be. I wanted to be active and involved. I wanted to pick her up from school each day and talk about her favorite part—always lunch and recess, and her least favorite—none to report so far, which is good, I think.

That idyllic situation seems like a fairytale most days. Two kids later, a mountain of homework and studying to be done—she's only in first grade for heaven's sake, sometimes the things I wanted to cherish just feel like a chore.

That is until bedtime. Yes, I'll admit, I'm excited come 7:30pm because it means I'm close to reclaiming some "me" time. But it's also the time we unwind and get lost in a book. Oh, the way the baby's fingers dance across the bookcase until she finds just the right one. She then backs up into my lap—or daddy's if he's home from work in time, and gets comfy for a story. Good Night Gorilla is a favorite right now, as are some French board books we bought to help her sister with school.

Once she goes to bed, it's Isabella's turn. She takes out her level books, and now that she's becoming an accomplished reader, she actually enjoys this part of the evening. Before it was a struggle, and honestly it used to drive me and the Mr. crazy. I mean, I'm a writer and we both have a fierce love of books. How could we possibly have birthed a non-reader? She had to come into reading on her own terms, as with every milestone she's reached so far.

Wondering how I'm going to connect this to those blueberry muffins, eh? Easy. Venturing into any unknown territory is always frightening to some degree. Whether it's worrying about decoding language or wondering if a recipe you have in mind will really work, it's a constant reminder that life is about taking chances. Think of it as the eternal search for the unknown—then hit rewind because after we crack one code, we inevitably move on to another quest.

But the muffins. What is so special about these blueberry muffins. You may also be asking why am I making blueberry muffins when berry season is long off. I went crazy buying them up at the farmers' market last year, and thankfully have a stash left in the freezer. I also bought a big bag of Wyman's frozen wild blueberries. And if you live in NYC, check your local Greenmarket. I've seen a few farmers selling some frozen ones from last year's harvest.

But I'm misleading you. After all, frozen blueberries are not that special to warrant this long-winded lesson on patience, learning and open-mindedness. I'm talking about the flour I used to make them. I came across it at the Grand Army Plaza Greenmarket. It's local organic "half-white" from Farmer Ground Flour. The label describes it as a medium protein bread flour, commonly referred to as brown flour in Europe, that "retains some of the bran and germ for nutrition and flavor".

Oh, one more thing. I should probably tell you I don't like whole wheat flour. It's too earthy for my palate. I love mushrooms, and that fresh dirt smell they impart when you get them fresh picked from the farmers' market, but please keep it out my baked goods. So, it was with a little apprehension that I bought a sack of this expensive flour—$6 for a two pound bag. Still, I was intrigued at the idea of tasting a locally milled flour. When I got home, a google search pointed me to this website for a Croatian product that looked similar, but that was about it. It seems to be relatively unknown, otherwise.

On first inspection, this flour looked and felt beautiful. It was quite soft in texture, almost like cake flour, and didn't have that strong scent of regular whole wheat flour. My mother-in-law was coming that evening for her 79th birthday celebration, so I decided to use it in a lemon-glazed raspberry cake. A risky, if not insane decision considering I'd never worked with this flour before and I was developing a new recipe.

smashed brown potatoes + weekend brunch picks

Now that the Thanksgiving dishes are done, I have a few minutes to let you know my brunch picks for the weekend. The picture you're looking at above is my version of hash browns using leftover mashed potatoes. Next week I'll share my recipe for the best cranberry sauce ever. If you think the garnet-hued stuff is just for turkey day, this recipe will change your mind. I'm stocking up on cranberries and plan on canning some to give as holiday gifts this year.

thanksgiving countdown

Today I found myself strolling through the Union Square Greenmarket after finally meeting Julia. It thrills me to meet twitter friends in real life, and is even more rewarding when they turn out to be as wonderful in person. I'd made note on my pass through the market before we met of a bread stand, Buon Pane. The sourdough baguettes looked beautiful and they were my back up plan if I didn't feel up to walking to Balthazar to get the very necessary ingredient for my stuffing.

I got home, baguette in hand from Buon Pane (it was too cold and windy to walk to Soho) and diced it into cubes after cleaning up dinner (beef stew over hand-cut pappardelle if you're interested). This will probably be my last post this week so I have ample time to finish up work and get started on the rest of my Thanksgiving prep work. Curious about the menu? Yeah, I thought so. The main course is turkey...of course (ha, get it, course? Imagine the poor Mr. who has to laugh at my jokes).

I don't brine and I'm not into fancy glazes. Frankly, I've never had a dry bird by stuffing a heart attack's load of butter under the skin and roasting on high heat for about 30 minutes, then reducing 75 degrees or so for the rest of the roasting time. I know you want exact temperatures but in all honesty in changes every year. I usually pull my Fannie Farmer cookbook off the shelf to gauge roasting temps and times. The turkey is just one thing I refuse to stress about and maybe that's why it always comes out looking gorgeous and tasting phenomenal. As for the rest of the menu, there'll be an antipasto platter, broccoli, smoky creamed kale, apple pie, candied nuts if I have time, and the rest of the edible cast goes something like this:

Dorie's biscuits - may even use some rendered leaf lard!

Here's a quick & easy homemade bread recipe too.

sweet potato, ricotta and leek souffle

These cubes will become stuffing with a recipe from memory.

Perhaps this will be the year I write it down!

It's filled with herbed sausage, carrots, celery, onions, pecans or chestnuts

depending on my mood, some eggs and seasonings.

 

caramel pecan pumpkin pie

You could even start the meal with this velvety butternut squash soup. And, if you're skipping sweet potatoes for some old fashioned ones, here are some great tips from Jen Schall on making the perfect mash:

Type - The type of potatoes you choose will make all of difference.  Starchy potatoes like Russets (often called Idaho potatoes) or Yukon Gold potatoes yield nice, fluffy mashed potatoes. Avoid using red potatoes or new potatoes that tend to be waxy and lower in starch.

Texture - To get perfectly smooth and creamy mashed potatoes, try using a potato ricer or a food mill to mash the potatoes.  If you prefer a chunkier texture, go for a wire masher and mash by hand.  To avoid the dreaded “wallpaper paste” potatoes, be sure not to over-mash, since this will break down the starches and create a pasty potato.

Taste - Think beyond the traditional butter and milk in your potatoes this year.  Experiment with new flavors like bacon, sour cream and chives, roasted garlic, or even jalepeño!

Need something sweet for your weekend brunch plans? How about my apple cranberry crumb cake, apple allspice muffins, or cinnamon buns? I'm happy to be on call for other Thanksgiving questions, and the best way to get a quick response is on twitter. 

Lastly, the most important thing to remember while getting ready for Thanksgiving is it's about being grateful for all we have every day of our lives. So, don't sweat it if a side or two aren't piping hot, and who cares if you're pie crust is a little imperfect? Look at each and every person sitting at your dinner table. They are there because you share a special connection. For me the holidays are about creating memories and traditions for my daughters. Before I truss the turkey, I'll be making a donation to Share Our Strength: Share Your Season to help end childhood hunger. I hope you'll join me. Have a very happy holiday, and see you next week.

apple allspice crumb muffins

I have a habit, a compulsion really, of always tinkering with my recipes. It's not so much that I think they need improving—more the quest to always use new ingredients and techniques. Take my apple muffin recipe for example. It came about two years ago after a day of apple picking. There's only so many pies one can make, and eat (or so I try to tell myself).

Well, a few weekends ago, I was wondering what would happen if I used shredded apples instead of diced chunks. I imagined they'd kind of melt into the batter, adding lots of moisture as well as flavor. Almost like adding apple sauce. I also wanted to play around with the spices. I'd had allspice on my mind too since the Tuesdays with Dorie folks had selected her allspice crumb muffins last month. What if I replaced the cinnamon with allspice? This fragrant flavor always plays back up to cinnamon, but this time I'd let it be the star. And so, my apple allspice muffins were born. I've already made them a few times, including one Sunday morning when I brought some to Dan at Grazin' Angus Acres (after all, his eggs make everything I bake taste better and produce a rich golden color too).

Melted butter makes a fool-proof crumb topping.

I've become smitten with The Pioneer Woman's photos of dry ingredients cascading into the bowl.

This new Ninja Master Prep (courtesy of Euro Pro) did a great job producing "shredded" apples.

See, no need for a box grater or shredding disc on the food processor.

 

 

 

Apple Allspice Muffins

makes 12

For Crumb Topping

2 tablespoons butter, melted

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1/2 cup all purpose flour

For Muffins

3 cups all purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon allspice

8 tablespoons butter, softened

1/2 cup granulated sugar

2 large eggs

1 cup sour cream

2 cups peeled, shredded apples

 

Preheat oven to 375º.  Grease or line a 12-cup muffin tin with liners.  For the topping, mix all ingredients in small bowl with a fork  until combined; set aside.

For the muffins, mix flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and all spice in a medium-size bowl; set aside. In a medium-sized bowl, cream butter and sugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about three minutes.  Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each one.

Beat in one third of the dry ingredients, then add one-third of the sour cream. Alternating between dry ingredients and sour cream, repeat until all ingredients have been incorporated.  Using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, stir in the diced apples. 

Evenly divide batter into the muffin-tin cups.  Sprinkle tops evenly with the crumb topping.  Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden brown and toothpick inserted comes out clean.

Oh, What a Glorious Morning (cake that is)

Here's the latest recipe I created for the Cuisinart Stand Mixer blog—it uses the food processor attachment. And if you haven't crossed it off your wish list yet, you can always shred the vegetables with a box grater. 

xo

Jennifer

***

I'm a glutton for punishment when it comes to morning glory muffins. I can't resist them when walking into a bakery, and am inevitably disappointed with the greasy fingertips that result. Of course, it's not meant to be a substitute for a vegetable serving but surely the taste can be true to the main ingredients, instead of leaving a slick residue. This was my challenge recently.

Sunday Best: Homemade Waffles

 

A few months ago I was at a friend's house having breakfast. Four adults and three kids had eaten through the lemon blueberry waffles he made with lightening speed, and when the calls came for more, he replied "there's no more mix left". Since he's such an avid cook, I was surprised he'd rely on a box or package to make waffles. Then a few days ago I was watching a video on Good Bite where some top food bloggers made some confessions. Turns out Catherine McCord from weelicious.com is all about Aunt Jemima on weekend mornings (Jaden Hair is a brownie from the box gal and Jeanne Kelley relies on canned stock vs. homemade).

A Real Winner: Sweet & Savory Tomato Jam

 

My twitter pals know why I was whistling dixie yesterday. While on vacation I took a few minutes to enter my tomato jam recipe into the weekly contest for best preserves over at Food 52. Well guess what (ok, you probably figured out but please entertain me)? I won. And the crazy thing is with all my accomplishments, this one means more than you can imagine. Not only was it chosen by the amazing duo of Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs—the community cast the votes, so it means I reached real people. That's why I started blogging almost three years ago. What started as a way to connect and share my life experiences with friends and family, has blossomed into In Jennie's Kitchen. Like my tag line says, it's all about "making meals easier, one recipe at a time". Just because you have children doesn't mean you have to sacrifice quality and flavor. And for those who say they can't cook, I say if you can boil water, saute some garlic, add tomatoes and fresh basil, then yes, you can!

On that note, here's the winning recipe and you won't believe how easy it is to make. Patience is a virtue here, so get ready to catch up on Mad Men, Top Chef, or whatever you kids watch these days while it's simmering on the stove. And thanks again to everyone in the Food 52 community who made this gal from Brooklyn so very proud and bursting with joy.

Sweet & Savory Tomato Jam
Makes 1 ½ pints

Just enough sweetness to tow the line between a condiment for roasted and grilled meats and a treat to slather on toasted baguette, this is a great way to preserve summer's bounty.

3 1/2 lbs tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1 small onion, diced
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp coriander
1/4 tsp cumin
1/4 cup cider vinegar
Juice of 1 lemon
1/2 cup finely diced tart green apple

Put all ingredients in a 2-quart pot. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cook until thickened and jam-like consistency, about 3 hours. Transfer to sterilized glass jars and store in refrigerator for up to two weeks, or use a hot-water canning bath for 15 minutes for long-term storage.

Add all these ingredients to a pot...

and a few hours later, this is your reward.

Bonus Round: As if one win wasn't enough to make me squeal with delight, this recipe for Seriously Delicious Ribs was chosen as the wildcard winner at Food 52 this week too.

 

 

Mango Hummus + Island Time

Is it really Friday? I'm so thankful to have a busy work schedule given the economy and job market but I'm always torn between the sunny outdoors and air-conditioned confines of the home office. I've got some haricot vert and fingerling potatoes that I hope haven't passed their prime, along with a few tomatoes from the farmers' market, so I'm going to make something out of them for lunch. Before I do that, though, I wanted to post that mango hummus recipe I tweeted about a few weeks ago. I created it for Role Mommy as a back-to-school lunch snack. As I suspected, the mango lent a sweet undertone followed by a hint of spice from the garlic. It also doubles as a sandwich spread, and I used it on that eggplant and manouri cheese panini last week.

This is my last week before leaving for the sandy shores of Cape Cod. I cannot wait to switch my internal clock to "island time". I've got some great guest bloggers joining starting August 24th, so get ready for some extra company in the kitchen. September is also shaping up to be quite busy with the added project of editing and recipe testing a cookbook (specifics are top secret for now, and it's not my own, but a fun assignment nonetheless) and this little thing called BlogHer Food in San Francisco at the end of the month. I'm going to lay-low this weekend and maybe make my six-year-old's favorite breakfast on Sunday, buttermilk pancakes or perhaps some French toast bread pudding, while catching up with the morning news shows and Wait, Wait Don't Tell Me. See you all on Monday.

   

Mango Hummus
Makes about 2 cups

One 15-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
½ cup diced mango (about half a mango)
1 clove garlic, sliced
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

Add chickpeas, mango and garlic to the workbowl of a food processor. Pulse until mixture forms a thick paste. Season with pepper. Slowly drizzle in olive oil and process until hummus is smooth and creamy about two minutes.

Zucchini Potato Hash

The irony of being a food writer is that some days I forget to eat lunch. Crazy and seemingly impossible, I know, but especially true when I'm testing desserts all day. A few weeks back, the hunger started kicking in, so I went to my old standby and took out some eggs (you know they're a nutritional powerhouse, right?). Looking for a companion on the plate, I rummaged through the fridge and found some zucchini from the farmer's market. I also spied some new potatoes and onions, so they came along for the ride. I had the makings for what is now known in my house as zucchini potato hash. A fresh handful of basil from the backyard gave it a nice spicy kick. Just the boost I needed too to get on with the rest of my workday.

Eggs in a Nest

I love eggs. They're an inexpensive source of protein compared to meat, even if you buy them at the farmer's market, and filled with lots of natural vitamins and minerals. The yolks are also rich in choline, a nutrient important for brain development, making them a great kid food too. I'm not sure they work on the older, already developed brains, as the Mr. still forgets most of what I tell him. That may be just be a side effect of marriage I suppose.

Eggs are also my back up "I don't have a lot of time to cook ingredient". Saute some vegetables and you've got a frittata. There's also nothing like perfectly fried or sunny side up eggs with salad, well...and maybe some bacon too. A girl cannot live on sweets alone and this week I've been in dessert testing mode. I had eggs from my favorite farmer, Dan at Grazin' Angus Acres, and decided to make birds in a nest for lunch. Instead of phyllo or puff pastry, I lined an individual casserole dish (like the kind you'd use for French onion soup) with multi-grain pita. In went the eggs, topped with a splash of cream, some Parmesan and fresh black pepper. I continued with my writing and less than 20 minutes later, I had a pretty elegant-looking meal and one more egg recipe to add to my files.